So EGR replaced, extended warranty company paid, all OK for now! £300 a bit of an improvement on £3000
Will definitely look at the LED mod - it's the sort of clever thing I like to do. But only when the weather improves...
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Car in Limp Home Mode - error codes?
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Wow, the main dealer was really taking the p*ss!
That list lizzard-t suggested, EGR clean (replace in your case) MAF sensor clean, MAP sensor clean and throttle body clean seems to be an absolute must on all these EGR equipped cars.
Just done essentially the same to fix a Nissan Qashqai diesel!
The new EGR may well have you completely sorted but maybe get your man to do the other bits too. No parts required and it is all pretty easy to access (well it is on my old 2011).
Good luck.
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Welll, this is interesting. Finally got her in to the mechanic I've known and trusted for maybe 30 years. He said:
1. The EGR is definitely knackered. Jammed (open, I think he said). I think my extended warranty peeps will pay for a new one.
2. He can find no trace of the inlet manifold leaking coolant, as the main dealer asserted.
Hoping to get the EGR fitted and paid for this week.
The car did its raised idle thing the other day, so I drove till it came back down again. Of course, I forgot to check the instantaneous fuel consumption... next time hopefully. And when I get all this sorted out, I'll look at doing the LED in the tweeter mod...
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Originally posted by RBH View PostI did this mod years ago and it's extremely worthwhile.
But then I took the plunge, gutted the DPF and blanked of the EGR.
Then remapped them off the the car.
I don't need to worry any more.
Questions though:
1. If you remove the DPF, does the MOT not pick that up in the emissions test? We don't have it here in NI yet, but it's coming...
2. My car's supposed to "need" a software upgrade - would that overwrite the new map, or is that a completely different thing?
Thanks
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Originally posted by G!zzard1533 View PostThere was a recent thread with issue for EGR valve. If your warranty company will pay for it and your local guy is willing to work along side them (usually just booking the right hours for the job and few more bits of paperwork) I’d get him to remove and clean the EGR, then clear codes and go from there. If it comes back or if the EGR is too badly sooted up. Sometimes it’s easier to just replace - which is maybe what you warranty company will have him do to save potentially revisiting the job
I don't know if you could get a mechanic (even an ageing one like mine) to dismantle and clean things nowadays, though I can ask. I think, as the main dealer diag report says that the EGR needs to be replaced, they'll agree to it, so why not...
Only thing is now, my man is away on holiday, so first date I could book the motor in was Nov 6th... Still, that'll give me a couple of weeks to see how she goes - she's been fine since ger Sunday thrash...
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There was a recent thread with issue for EGR valve. If your warranty company will pay for it and your local guy is willing to work along side them (usually just booking the right hours for the job and few more bits of paperwork) I’d get him to remove and clean the EGR, then clear codes and go from there. If it comes back or if the EGR is too badly sooted up. Sometimes it’s easier to just replace - which is maybe what you warranty company will have him do to save potentially revisiting the job
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Yes it would put it in limp mode.
That's why I say get someone to remove it and clean it thoroughly also the map maf and throttle body.its a diesel so carbon is going to build up.and it's advisable to clean these items as part of regular maintenance.
As long as the oil level is ok and no smell of diesel then ignore the oil dilution and oil and filter change.
Combined we have already saved you £1500 .
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Originally posted by lizzard-t View PostIf the level is higher than max and it has a smell of diesel then it has not been regenerating .if the oil level is fine then discount the need for a forced regen and oil and filter change.
It definitely didn't smell of diesel though - just that usual oil smell!
PS as the motor has EGR fault codes stored, do you think the EGR sticking would be enough to put her into Limp Home Mode?
P0402 - EGR Excessive Flow
P0404 - EGR circuit range / performanceLast edited by Hogweed; 16-10-2024, 08:49 PM.
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Originally posted by Formalhaut View PostYou didn't previously mention it was loosing coolant. Does it? If not, you'd better forget part 3.
Did it go again into limp mode?
And if my engine is the kind Lizzard mentions above, and is known for cracking the manifold, the main dealer will doubtless know that too, and maybe saw a small leak at that point.
Too many unknowns for poor old me to get my head round!
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Originally posted by lizzard-t View PostMy question to you would be can you do simple levels checks if so check the oil level.from cold.
If the level is higher than max and it has a smell of diesel then it has not been regenerating .if the oil level is fine then discount the need for a forced regen and oil and filter change.
I would at the nearest minimum get someone to remove the EGR and clean it thoroughly.
Also remove and clean the MAF and MAP Sensors.
And give the throttle body a clean.
Remove the battery terminals for half an hour then re-connect.clear down the codes and start the car and allow to idle for 10 mins.
Then take for a bit of a spirited drive.
And see how it goes.
Putting additives into your tank will not clean a sooted up EGR .
As for the coolant leak.
If yours is a 170 BHP diesel then the inlet manifold is known for cracking around cylinder number 1 bolt hole.
So it maybe a leak that could be unnoticeable due to heat .
But a cheaper garage is required.
I did disconnect the battery and thrash it - seems OK so far.
No point in my trying to check the codes - my little cheapo scanner gave a list of 10, but the main dealer's dedicated Vauxhall machine only found two, both pertaining to the EGR.
Mine's the 163 bhp diesel {edit - or is it 163PS...?} - not sure if that's the same as the 170??
I don't see any fluid dripping anywhere, and the header looks at about the kind of level I'd expect, so if there is a leak I'm thinking maybe a seep rather than a dribble... but you can't really see the manifold. Well, I can't anyway!
I COULD maybe take it to my normal garage - my extended warranty would cover most of his labour, which is £50 an hour rather than £140 for the main dealer! But I'd have to go through the process of getting him to work with the warranty company etc, and probably wait 3 weeks till he could do anything.
So not easy, really.
But thanks a lot for your adviceLast edited by Hogweed; 16-10-2024, 07:20 PM.
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My question to you would be can you do simple levels checks if so check the oil level.from cold.
If the level is higher than max and it has a smell of diesel then it has not been regenerating .if the oil level is fine then discount the need for a forced regen and oil and filter change.
I would at the nearest minimum get someone to remove the EGR and clean it thoroughly.
Also remove and clean the MAF and MAP Sensors.
And give the throttle body a clean.
Remove the battery terminals for half an hour then re-connect.clear down the codes and start the car and allow to idle for 10 mins.
Then take for a bit of a spirited drive.
And see how it goes.
Putting additives into your tank will not clean a sooted up EGR .
As for the coolant leak.
If yours is a 170 BHP diesel then the inlet manifold is known for cracking around cylinder number 1 bolt hole.
So it maybe a leak that could be unnoticeable due to heat .
But a cheaper garage is required.
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Originally posted by Hogweed View Post
Thanks... no, I wasn't aware it was losing coolant. But why would I forget Part 3? Sorry, don't understand...
..
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