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Oil Pick Up Seal DIY Guide.

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  • Oil Pick Up Seal DIY Guide.

    Ok, later than planned but hear goes...

    Disclaimer - This is what worked for me, there may be better ways again but if anyone can pull something from it then its me giving back what other have given to me.

    Firstly, I did not entertain any other replacement oil pick up seal other than genuine VX, if it lasted the 120k already done then even another 30k from a new seal would be a bonus. I would imagine all the aftermarket ones on eBay haven't been tested/verified etc etc so I was sticking with the original part (No.55589549)


    Once the seal was obtained from the VX dealer I set about, I have a 2nd car available to me so I was in no rush.

    1. Car was on my drive as nice and flat, front end jacked up and 2 x axle stands under sills.

    2. Removed drivers side wheel only followed by any undertray below the engine/sump to allow access.

    3. I knew from previously looking under the car that I had the F40 box with no cut outs so I knew I would either need to drill out or slide the gearbox back, I choose the drilling option as I am an animal. As I knew I needed to drill I purchased a nice new set of decent drill bits (15) to ensure easy work.

    4. As a guide as to where to drill I studied previous photos of where others had drilled on this site, for example ( apologies to the original poster for credit, please make yourself known!):

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    ​​
    5. With the above example I grabbed a sharpie and marked the same areas, this gave me a starting point with a 6mm drill bit. PLEASE make sure you wear safety googles, I learnt the hard way from the start and was soon back in the house picking out drill shavings from my eyeballs!

    6. Once I grabbed my safety glasses (yes I had them all along!) I grabbed the torch and a slim pointed tool and had a little poke to ensure all was good and that I had 2 nice clear voids, I then progressively used larger diameter drill bits working slowly with minimal force to increase the diameter of the holes.

    7. Once the holes were slightly larger, say 8mm, I could use my pointer/torch to look in and ensure all was good, I then started to make smaller holes around the main hole:

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    ​​
    ​​8. Now in hindsight, it is permissible to only make the 2 holes at 8mm hole which will enable you to release the 2 x M6 bolts (T40 torx - I used a Halfords Straight Torx Driver, the bolts are not tight, only 8 Nm), but not fully release them to your hand (as they will likely drop down into the bell housing). Its your call but I had made the 2 holes big enough to also allow sight of the gaps in the flywheel which you will need to align with each bolt by turning the crank towards the front of the car (19mm socket). Once you have put the socket (with longish bar) on the crank you can go back under the sump and use your right hand to turn the crank whilst viewing the flywheel with a torch until you see the gap to allow the M6 bolt to be undone.

    9. You will no doubt 'miss the gap' and have to do another revolution to find the gap again but once you have undone both bolts you have done one of the hardest parts of this job (or if your lucky enough to have the cuts already in which case I despise you!)

    10. Once I had these 2 bolts out I realised it was game on and dropped the oil through the sump plug, I didn't drop it before as wanted to make sure the drilling part/bolt removal was achieved.

    11. Undo the two bolts securing the catalytic convertor support bracket to the sump:, I also removed the 3 nuts connecting the catalytic converter to the exhaust as this helped with moving the exhaust out of the way.

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    12. Sticking with the exhaust I removed the support bracket which is roughly under the gearstick, I removed all 4 bolts, you may get away with just the outer 2. Be sure to support the front part of the exhaust prior to removing this support bracket ( I just tied mine to the lowest point possible to maximise room for removing/replacing the sump, the more that's out of the way the better.

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    It should look like this once removed:

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    ​​​

    13. Remove the 2 electrical connections at the rear of the sump/engine, ensure they are tucked away to avoid being snagged when removing the sump, the 2nd connector requires removal of 10mm bolt and then you just twist and pull the plug out.

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    14. Remove the other bolts around the sump, there is a further 2 T40 torx M6 bolts on the opposite side of the sump (under the crank pulley) with 8(?) x T50 torx M8 bolts along the longest sides of the sump. In addition there are 2 M10 bolts (below) which connect the sump to the bell housing, these 2 are visible and easy to remove.

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    15. Next I removed the drivers side driveshaft as I knew that getting the sump wouldn't be a problem, but to reinstall the sump I wanted maximum room to ensure there was no sump sealant displaced or damage to the new oil pick up seal.

    16. Drivers side wheel off obviously and then remove ball joint from hub and track rod end, this will enable the hub to be removed from the end of the driveshaft.

    17. There are 3 bolts connecting the intermediate shaft bearing housing to the carrier on the engine block and also the 3 smaller bolts holding the shaft itself in the carrier as shown below (the triangular shape). You will also need to remove the carrier (3 bolts) from the engine block.

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    Below you can see the carrier released from both the driveshaft and the engine block, the engine block is to the left hand side, you can see the 3 holes in the driveshaft joint which bolt into this carrier, you cant get the carrier off until you have removed the 3 bolts from the driveshaft joint.

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    18. The whole driveshaft can now be removed from the car but before you do so make sure you have some CLEAN paper towel or cloth to put into the transmission seal or you will lose ALL of your transmission oil. Once you are ready you can fully remove the driveshaft and carefully set to one side, I put a zip log back over the transmission end to keep it clean and free from any dirt/debris.



    19. With all the bolts removed from the sump from earlier, the sump itself will not budge without some force. I used a ball joint splitter fork and carefully placed it between the bell housing and the sump (see below pic), with the gradient forks it enabled me to slightly tap the fork which in effect breaks the sump seal 'sideways' and after a few light taps and wiggles from drivers wheel to passenger wheel and it broke the seal enough to be able to man handle the sump off the block.

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    20. With the sump off completely I stripped it all down and assessed for any metal in the oil pick up strainer etc, after this I thoroughly cleaned all parts, including removing all of the old sealant with a new razor blade to make it squeaky clean ready for the new sealant.

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    21. With the sump cleaned & prepared, the next step was to remove all of the old sealant which was stuck to the block, this was more difficult but with perseverance I got there (in-between the oil left on the crankshaft dripping on my face).

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    22. On the below picture you can see the position of the oil pick up seal, its removed at this point but it goes in the hole at the bottom left. You will also notice the driveshaft still in place as to begin with I only removed the bracket and it was only after that I realised it had to come out to get the sump back in nicely!

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    23. Now at this point you should have a sump off, all electrical connections to the sump disconnected, sump exhaust connections remove and front exhaust supported, driveshaft removed and have a clean sump , a clean engine block and a new oil pick up seal inserted ( tip - Give the new Oil Pick up seal and slightly smudging of oil once inserted, it will ensure the sump glides over it if it touches slightly) - Give yourself a pat on the back!

    24. Now at this point I decided to do a few 'dry runs' with no sealant on the sump, this is the best advice I can give you as you get a good feel on how you will need to introduce the sump to the block whilst navigating the new oil seal as this end is particularly tight. You will see when you do it yourself but I can only describe it as ' position the sump towards the back of the engine block, whilst moving it into position, slightly rotate it at the same time making sure to keep 1 eye on the new oil pick up seal area as this is tight with the chassis arm'. Take your time with the dry runs until you can be confident of positioning the sump without touching anything. It reminded me of that game where you have the hoop on the wire and you try not to get buzzed!

    25. So next is the new sump sealant, I used 'Wynns Black Gasket Maker, it is readily available.


    26. I did not take a photo at this point but its just a case of running around the sump with a bead of sealant approximately 1.0 mm from the inner edge of the sump. The bead of sealant should be between 2.0 and 2.5 mm in diameter, I went around all of the bolt holes also for completeness.

    27. Now is the time, take a deep breath and remember your dry runs. MAKE SURE YOU REMOVE THE OIL DIPSTICK TO AVOID GETTING TRAPPED! - Take the sump, get on your back and get that sump back on. Once it is in position you can commence putting all the bolts back in (torques below). I put all the bolts in loose to begin with and then progressively tightened them in a mixed/diagonal order with the final nip up to the torque settings. I went for middle of the road so ; 8, 22 & 35.

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    28. Once the sump is nice and snug you can begin the process of putting the driveshaft back, the exhaust/catalytic convertor back and don't forget the 2 x electrical connections at the back of the block.

    29. Fill her up with oil and cross your fingers whilst starting her over.

    I will no doubt re-read this tomorrow and make some edits but I wanted to get it posted for fear of losing it again. I also know there are potentially other ways to tackle this but it worked for me so I am happy, please feel free to comment on any edits that would benefit from other planning to do this themselves.

    God Bless







    Last edited by Ruiz328; 13-01-2024, 06:07 PM.

  • #2
    Very well written and informative and will definitely help a lot of people out, thank you!

    Comment


    • #3
      Brilliant write up.
      I've made it a sticky so it stays at the top.

      Comment


      • #4
        Very good write up there!!

        Comment


        • #5
          Insignia Elite 16T,Royal Blue non Nav. + added,
          Heko Wind Deflectors,Alloy Pedal Covers.Led full Interior,Polished Alloy Door Pins,Osram Diadem Opel Rear indicator Bulbs,Led Reverse Light Upgrade,Gear Surround Red Leds,Led reg plate lights,Nighteye Fog lamp Bulbs,Osram Night Breaker Laser Cornering Bulbs,Rear Sunblinds,Nextbase 522GW front/rear window cam,upgraded front speakers,SS Exhaust,6000k Xenon Bulbs,Thinkdiag Diagnostic Tool

          Comment


          • #6
            Absolute legend for this!
            ​​​​​​

            Comment


            • #7
              Superb write up! Brilliant detail top notch job sir!! Now then…… How do I save this for when I do mine next week


              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Hindle1976 View Post
                Superb write up! Brilliant detail top notch job sir!! Now then…… How do I save this for when I do mine next week


                Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
                It's a 'sticky' be here when you need it!
                Insignia Elite 16T,Royal Blue non Nav. + added,
                Heko Wind Deflectors,Alloy Pedal Covers.Led full Interior,Polished Alloy Door Pins,Osram Diadem Opel Rear indicator Bulbs,Led Reverse Light Upgrade,Gear Surround Red Leds,Led reg plate lights,Nighteye Fog lamp Bulbs,Osram Night Breaker Laser Cornering Bulbs,Rear Sunblinds,Nextbase 522GW front/rear window cam,upgraded front speakers,SS Exhaust,6000k Xenon Bulbs,Thinkdiag Diagnostic Tool

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by Howy View Post

                  It's a 'sticky' be here when you need it!
                  yeah sticky, like sticky stuff that sticks

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Cum !


                    .K.M.P.C.U
                    YEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAAA

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by lizzard-t View Post
                      Cum !
                      Too early

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Where's the sticky jizz save thingamy bob thing at?


                        Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Got it, saved to my drop box cheers boys


                          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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                          • #14
                            Great Write up, this will be printedd off and used when i do mine next week.

                            i do have a question though, are the bolts that are hidden by the flywheel T30s or T40s? I thought the the hidden ones are T30s and the rest T40 but ive read a few conflicting stories while searching and a few people have said the smaller bolts are T40 and th rest are T50s?

                            I need to order a set of 150mm bits and didnt want to get the wrong size as some only go up to T40

                            Thanks

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              It's a hell of a lot of work just for a poxy rubber o ring though isn't it, mine will be done next week as I have the week off work to do it, I'm looking forward to the challenge though, I've done something similar on one or 2 of the previous cars I've had in the past but never done anything this complex before, once this is done I'll be getting the tracking done afterwards


                              Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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