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  • #31
    Sorry didn't see the codes you put up .
    But diff oil
    Is ,75w90 GL5 0.95 of a liter
    Haldex oil 101172 febi Bilstein
    0.7 of a liter refill
    0.95 of a liter from dry .
    That thing you just explained seems to me to denote the pressure regulator.because as soon as you turn the road wheel the haldex system is disengaged
    Which it sounds like it has done.
    I don't know if you have ever serviced the haldex system but once a year is a good benchmark.
    Make sure the levels are correct before draining because it's been known that the seal between the diff and the haldex starts to leak and raises the level in the haldex unit .in which case the whole unit needs taking out and splitting


    .K.M.P.C.U
    YEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAAA

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    • #32
      No I've not done the haldex before I've only had the car 14 months it was on my summer to do list along with a brake service, the dif oil and haldex service from what I can see I can do without removing the dif, but if like you say it needs splitting I'm then over my head,

      How much should I expect to see drain out

      Bear in mind this is the first car I've ever attempted work on myself and so far I've manged to change the alternator the dpf pressure sensor 2 times, boost control valve solenoid and did the service clean on the egr, maf and map sensors, up to this point the only thing I've ever done was oil and filters


      Is this the correct oil
      Shop the latest The Comma Gear Oil is recommended for applications requiring a 75W-90, 80W-90 or 85W-90 API GL-5. at Halfords UK


      And I was going to use this kit

      https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305146982230?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D7770 08%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D202403 15132637%26meid%3D685ea6b243994af88ea979c06d010fe0 %26pid%3D102055%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26mehot%3Dnone% 26itm%3D305146982230%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D43 75194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2MobileWithMLRV 6RankerPricelessTop50Features&_trksid=p4375194.c10 2055.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3Acaaa33f41900a770 46a87df8ffffd616%7Cpageci%3Aac1d5168-45be-11ef-8fee-96be6367a8a9%7Ciid%3A1%7Cvlpname%3Avlp_homepage

      Would I need anything else? Like the bit for the drain plug and fill as thats not a normal socket so I'll need to order those if someone Knows the size

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      • #33
        You should see the same amount come out as you are putting in .
        there are enough videos on YouTube about how to service the haldex unit,
        the side comes off the haldex unit to drain it .
        ill see if I still have the too. I used on mine to give you an Idea of the size required.


        .K.M.P.C.U
        YEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAAA

        Comment


        • #34
          Originally posted by lizzard-t View Post
          You should see the same amount come out as you are putting in .
          there are enough videos on YouTube about how to service the haldex unit,
          the side comes off the haldex unit to drain it .
          ill see if I still have the too. I used on mine to give you an Idea of the size required.
          Thanks I have a video another member posted but dosent tell you sizes,


          Also I think i found the problem of why the axle locked up I don't think it's the haldex, just went for a drive gotout the car to burning smell and both front wheels where smoking see the video


          Comment


          • #35
            There you go cheap and easy to fix ,
            as said never known a haldex unit lock up due to failure. But get it serviced as soon as ,once a year is what I used to do with mine .


            .K.M.P.C.U
            YEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAAA

            Comment


            • #36
              Yeah I'm going to order that kit on pay day, for the brakes today I'm going to remove each wheel remove the sliding pins clean them and apply lots of copper grease and spray every thing with lots of brake cleaner, is there anything I need to look out for, that could cause that?

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              • #37
                Well drivers side front pins are rusted and dry
                Attached Files

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                • #38
                  Is,each wheel binding ?if so could be the brake booster thats kaput
                  if it's just localised then it could be the calliper or slide pins as you have found.they do start to swell and rust which normally requires replacement.


                  .K.M.P.C.U
                  YEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAAA

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Well just finished and I'm exhausted all the pins where the same apart from one that was completely seized I had to take the bracket off and put it in a vice use heat and lots of lube to get it out, all slides now move much more freely, and the one that was sized was the rear so explains the e brake issues, ideally I need a full new set of sliders but can't afford it right now, on the front passangers side the screw holding the disc in place was half out and the disc could freely wobble so tightened that back up,

                    Car feels better to me but 8 never drive 8t so waiting on wife's approval she hates me touching the car, she will probably have me book it on the garage to grade my homework

                    Whilst I had the rear wheel off I noticed my rear shock has broken so that's another bill

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                    • #40
                      So wife drove it and said the brake pedal sounds like she is blowing up an air bed, I must say I agree, but the brakes come on with gentle pressure and are working so not sure if that means anything?


                      I think on pad is still catching slightly as one wheel got noticeably warmer then the rest but not hot as before, perhaps needs bedding back in again?

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Are the discs lipped at all ?
                        Did you change the pads or just dis assemble and refit old pads ?
                        If those discs got as hot as in the video then you should of replaced them.they are glazed now .
                        Without being there I cannot really comment on the air bed but if my wife started to take the pi$$ out of what I had done then I would probably be inside the airbed if I told her to jog on !
                        As long as the brakes are working and you have no issues with the servo then tell her to turn the music up !


                        .K.M.P.C.U
                        YEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAAA

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Haha! No I just took all apart cleaned up and lubed everything nothing new, I have no money for that, she has made me book it in for a free brake check
                          ​​​
                          The brakes seem to stop the car and release ok so as far as I'm concerned it's sorted,

                          But secret to a happy marriage is knowing when to say nothing and just nod "ok dear"

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                          • #43
                            One way to check the servo is, with the ignition off, pump the brakes till the pedal is firm and the start the engine the pedal should dip a bit but not fall to the floor. The air bed noise is probably just the servo working, you can hear an air pumping noise on my works van and my car if the radio is silent and both of those brakes work absolutely fine

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                            • #44
                              ah ok yeah i wondered why the pedal moves a bit further down once the ignition comes on becomes slightly softer too once the engine is running, so that's normal then?

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by grimliver View Post
                                ah ok yeah i wondered why the pedal moves a bit further down once the ignition comes on becomes slightly softer too once the engine is running, so that's normal then?
                                Yeah it is completely normal

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