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  • egr cooler repair help

    I don't have a how to but there is 5 bolts you need to undo, they can be a bit fiddly to get too. you then need to make sure the seal is seated correctly when putting it back together. It is an easy enough job to do but I just paid my mechanic ?50 & he did the job for me. ?32.40 I paid for the part & ?10 for the coolant that needed replaced so all in I was just over ?90 for the job.

  • #2
    Mine didn't but it wasn't broken long enough tbh.

    Comment


    • #3
      Mick H, on 07 March 2015 - 09:43 AM, said:
      Vauxhall Insignia 2011. SRI??CDTI??2.0lt.??Part number of EGR cooler plastic body 55590953.??Number on component part 0705592. (Available on Ebay for ?25 up) A20DTH Engine.hi mick,did halfrauds actually say ?1200?!!if so I would have gone back and had a go,bloody outrageous.ps I am in lydd.sandy



      Tools: Snips, 1/4" drive socket set with torx heads, and 10mm socket, ratchet, extensions. large flat blade screwdriver, torches/work lights. long nose pliers, elec screwdriver, 10mm combo spanner.



      Materials: New EGR cooler body, new gaskets x 2, instant gasket or such like, coolant, 4.5mm wide x 150mm cable ties x 6, rags, wire brush, carb cleaner aerosol, latex gloves x 2 pairs, drip tray, pouring jug, 1m cord, and useful to have assistant to hold light!



      The car was very sluggish and was losing coolant. Only the last quarter of the accelerator pedal had any real effect when driving.??Took it to Halfords in Folkestone who quoted ?1200 to repair.

      Did some investigating on Ebay and got one for ?25.00 plus postage.



      I couldn't find a great deal of info on how to go about this, so apologies if this is wrong, however, it works and the car is now fit, after 3 hours works.??So here goes.



      The EGR Cooler body is situated just below and slightly to the right of the yellow dipstick holder shown in the picture below.







      The first thing is to ensure there is plenty of light! Also place a large drip tray under the car, the under tray will get in the way here, so be quick when coolant gushes out.



      There are a number of pipes and electrical cables which need to be moved and tied out of the way.??The turbo inlet hose simply unclips and can be moved to the side.??The dipstick bolts to the front of the Cooler housing and even when the bolt is removed, the tab obscures the Torx 20 head screw of the cooler body.??All the electrical connectors have a locking mechanism which is coloured tab which need lifting/sliding before the connector can be removed.??Don't be too harsh here as they can easily snap. Clip the cable ties holding the cables in place. There are also a number of small hoses connected to the Cooler body.??Make a note on a scrap piece of paper to relocate on assembly.







      Note the red cable tab which needs lifting before the black lug can be squeezed and the connector lifted. Note also the plate which holds the cable connectors.??This is held to the Cooler body with 3 x self tappers and a small torx fits. There is a small cyindrical device which is held by the back two of the self tappers, don't forget to replace on reassembly!









      The above picture shows the cable mount plate removed. Also it is easier to remove the exhaust upper heat shield, dipstick and I found it usefull to remove the bolt holding the turbo plastic tube and the two bolts holding the main cable assembly on top of the engine (Not necessary). The cables etc are tied back here to give access.??The 5 torx 20 dome headed M6 bolts that hold the Cooler body to the EGR valve assembly can now be removed, and boy is this fun! Have a look at the new cooler body as you grope around for the dome heads.??In the above picture you can just see the top left screw hidden behind the dipstick tube tab.??The dipstick can be gently prised to the left and you can just get on the screw head.







      The screw in the centre of the Cooler body is playful to get on being about 4 inches in.



      Once all 5 screw have been removed the Cooler body and cooler inside is ready to drop off.??When this happens, there will be a rush of coolant, so be careful no connectors are nearby to get wet!??Pull gently and the body comes off, hold a finger over the end to prevent the cooler inside falling out, this is very expensive to replace.



      Once the coolant has finished, remove the rubber gasket and throw away. Split the cooler from the old body and clean up the faces of the cooler with some carb spray and gentle use of a wire brush. Put to one side whilst cleaning the EGR valve body.??Once EGR valve body (attached to engine) is wiped out with a rag spray carb cleaner, get in as close as possible and if necessary use the wire brush to clean any debris, this is highly important to have ultraclean faces here.



      It is a good idea to take the centre rubber bung off the old cooler body and fit to the new one, there are 3 small capillary type tubes sticking out, its the centre one of these thats capped. Might be worth putting the long rubber tube on the single tube on the opposite side also, but it can be done in situ.



      Reassembly is relatively straight forward. I personally, use a little instant gasket to coat the rubber gaskets with before placing in the grooves on both the new EGR cooler body, and the EGR valve face, just to ensure they don't leak.??Vauxhall will probably say don't put anything on the surfaces, not sure here, so might be worth checking?



      Put the cleaned and dry cooler inside the cooler body and there are two lugs that line up, carefully get it in line and have a couple of bolts ready, these locating lugs also line up on the EGR valve body, so makes sure it is fairly well lined up. Double check there are no cables likely to get trapped and push the cooler assembly home.?? Whilst pushing get a couple of bolts in, again, the one behind the dipstick is a pain and needs to be fairly well wound in by fingers before the torx head will go on.??I found it usefull to get the deep centre bolt in at this stage to crank it in square. Gently ease each bolt in loosly at first the tighten opposites bit by bit, also the centre bolt, until all 5 are tightish.??DO NOT over tighten or you will break the plastic. Fill up with coolant and check for leaks at this stage as you don't want the hassle of unclipping connectors ever again!



      Put the rubber tubes on the body before placing the cable tray on, connect the dipstick bolt, then its just a case of reassembling everything. One tip, when putting new cable ties on, there are a couple of places where vauxhall use a special type of cable tie.??If you drag the cut off part through the clip, you can slide a new cable tie through the existing clip, works ok.



      Just warm up engine, and top up coolant as necessary, check for leaks, and job done, pat yourself on the back, tea and medals at 5pm!

      Comment


      • #4
        Just done this on our car today, thanks for the guide. What a cow of a job, hope I don't have to do that one too often

        Comment


        • #5
          Great how to there, have just had the dreaded leak from there so will be ordering the parts tomorrow. The joys of motoring

          Comment


          • #6
            how much would this cost in a garage , assuming i provided the parts - whats reasonable , thanks in advance.

            Comment


            • #7
              Just attempted this. Epic fail. Was hard enough trying to get all the cables out the way. And then the brackets that hold the cables. The dripstick bracket is impossible to get out the way. The 3 lower bolts cant be seen to remove. Gave up and rang my mechanic mate to come over and help.

              They build the engines and drop them in. They no longer consider maintenance when building engines. My wifes old corsa and new polo are a dream to work on. Even my mechanic mate has a passat and that is so easy to get to all parts.

              Comment


              • #8
                I tried to do this with a mate on my last siggy and gave up and took it to a garage. Guy that done it said it was a complete pain in the arse to do.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Mate done it in 40mins. Hes good with his cars. Drove 50 miles on the motorway. No more leaks. Back to planning my next mods.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I've done the replacement using the document I've posted in this topic. It sure is a complete pain, two of the screws were so rusty we had to drill them out

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      lo-and behold,
                      mine has just done it's world famous trick of spraying the inside of the engine bay with fresh coolant,

                      had a nosey around and spotted an area of the EGR cooler where coolant is spraying out,

                      looks like it's off to the garage tomorrow, as i don't really have the time to wait for parts to arrive....

                      bloody Vauxhall's
                      Chris

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Best I know most dealers carry the cooler housing and gasket kit on the shelf. Its not that difficult to DIY. Costs about 35 for the kit. You'll need about 3l of coolant too, unless you reuse the old stuff, but you're better off replacing.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          All fixed,
                          New EGR Cooler surround fitted whilst I was at work,
                          Just picked the car up and given it a good wash...(a peace offering after my mouth said some nasty words in frustration yesterday)
                          Chris

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by rnlisg View Post
                            Mick H, on 07 March 2015 - 09:43 AM, said:
                            Vauxhall Insignia 2011. SRI??CDTI??2.0lt.??Part number of EGR cooler plastic body 55590953.??Number on component part 0705592. (Available on Ebay for ?25 up) A20DTH Engine.hi mick,did halfrauds actually say ?1200?!!if so I would have gone back and had a go,bloody outrageous.ps I am in lydd.sandy



                            Tools: Snips, 1/4" drive socket set with torx heads, and 10mm socket, ratchet, extensions. large flat blade screwdriver, torches/work lights. long nose pliers, elec screwdriver, 10mm combo spanner.



                            Materials: New EGR cooler body, new gaskets x 2, instant gasket or such like, coolant, 4.5mm wide x 150mm cable ties x 6, rags, wire brush, carb cleaner aerosol, latex gloves x 2 pairs, drip tray, pouring jug, 1m cord, and useful to have assistant to hold light!



                            The car was very sluggish and was losing coolant. Only the last quarter of the accelerator pedal had any real effect when driving.??Took it to Halfords in Folkestone who quoted ?1200 to repair.

                            Did some investigating on Ebay and got one for ?25.00 plus postage.



                            I couldn't find a great deal of info on how to go about this, so apologies if this is wrong, however, it works and the car is now fit, after 3 hours works.??So here goes.



                            The EGR Cooler body is situated just below and slightly to the right of the yellow dipstick holder shown in the picture below.







                            The first thing is to ensure there is plenty of light! Also place a large drip tray under the car, the under tray will get in the way here, so be quick when coolant gushes out.



                            There are a number of pipes and electrical cables which need to be moved and tied out of the way.??The turbo inlet hose simply unclips and can be moved to the side.??The dipstick bolts to the front of the Cooler housing and even when the bolt is removed, the tab obscures the Torx 20 head screw of the cooler body.??All the electrical connectors have a locking mechanism which is coloured tab which need lifting/sliding before the connector can be removed.??Don't be too harsh here as they can easily snap. Clip the cable ties holding the cables in place. There are also a number of small hoses connected to the Cooler body.??Make a note on a scrap piece of paper to relocate on assembly.







                            Note the red cable tab which needs lifting before the black lug can be squeezed and the connector lifted. Note also the plate which holds the cable connectors.??This is held to the Cooler body with 3 x self tappers and a small torx fits. There is a small cyindrical device which is held by the back two of the self tappers, don't forget to replace on reassembly!









                            The above picture shows the cable mount plate removed. Also it is easier to remove the exhaust upper heat shield, dipstick and I found it usefull to remove the bolt holding the turbo plastic tube and the two bolts holding the main cable assembly on top of the engine (Not necessary). The cables etc are tied back here to give access.??The 5 torx 20 dome headed M6 bolts that hold the Cooler body to the EGR valve assembly can now be removed, and boy is this fun! Have a look at the new cooler body as you grope around for the dome heads.??In the above picture you can just see the top left screw hidden behind the dipstick tube tab.??The dipstick can be gently prised to the left and you can just get on the screw head.







                            The screw in the centre of the Cooler body is playful to get on being about 4 inches in.



                            Once all 5 screw have been removed the Cooler body and cooler inside is ready to drop off.??When this happens, there will be a rush of coolant, so be careful no connectors are nearby to get wet!??Pull gently and the body comes off, hold a finger over the end to prevent the cooler inside falling out, this is very expensive to replace.



                            Once the coolant has finished, remove the rubber gasket and throw away. Split the cooler from the old body and clean up the faces of the cooler with some carb spray and gentle use of a wire brush. Put to one side whilst cleaning the EGR valve body.??Once EGR valve body (attached to engine) is wiped out with a rag spray carb cleaner, get in as close as possible and if necessary use the wire brush to clean any debris, this is highly important to have ultraclean faces here.



                            It is a good idea to take the centre rubber bung off the old cooler body and fit to the new one, there are 3 small capillary type tubes sticking out, its the centre one of these thats capped. Might be worth putting the long rubber tube on the single tube on the opposite side also, but it can be done in situ.



                            Reassembly is relatively straight forward. I personally, use a little instant gasket to coat the rubber gaskets with before placing in the grooves on both the new EGR cooler body, and the EGR valve face, just to ensure they don't leak.??Vauxhall will probably say don't put anything on the surfaces, not sure here, so might be worth checking?



                            Put the cleaned and dry cooler inside the cooler body and there are two lugs that line up, carefully get it in line and have a couple of bolts ready, these locating lugs also line up on the EGR valve body, so makes sure it is fairly well lined up. Double check there are no cables likely to get trapped and push the cooler assembly home.?? Whilst pushing get a couple of bolts in, again, the one behind the dipstick is a pain and needs to be fairly well wound in by fingers before the torx head will go on.??I found it usefull to get the deep centre bolt in at this stage to crank it in square. Gently ease each bolt in loosly at first the tighten opposites bit by bit, also the centre bolt, until all 5 are tightish.??DO NOT over tighten or you will break the plastic. Fill up with coolant and check for leaks at this stage as you don't want the hassle of unclipping connectors ever again!



                            Put the rubber tubes on the body before placing the cable tray on, connect the dipstick bolt, then its just a case of reassembling everything. One tip, when putting new cable ties on, there are a couple of places where vauxhall use a special type of cable tie.??If you drag the cut off part through the clip, you can slide a new cable tie through the existing clip, works ok.



                            Just warm up engine, and top up coolant as necessary, check for leaks, and job done, pat yourself on the back, tea and medals at 5pm!
                            Hi, I have replaced my EGR cooler over the weekend but one of the bolts have been damaged in the process.
                            does anyone know what type of bolt they are so i can buy a replacement.
                            thanks in advance

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              take the bolt with you to any diy store and match it up, diameter and length is the most important bit, as there's not a massive load on the bolt the grade of steel wont matter

                              Comment

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