Thanks, i will give B&Q a try after work. do you think Halfords could be an option?
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egr cooler repair help
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i doubt halfords would have a range of bolts, other place you can try is screwfix, if you have calipers handy you can measure the thickness of the bolt including the threads and the length, the bolt will also have the material spec on the head on the bolt but thats not important
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The good news is I managed to find a replacement bolt. Next thing.. Would any one be kind enough to send me some photos of how the pipes go back onto the EGR cooler.
I must have connected it on wrong because I'm seeing no life on opcom for the EGR and it's also complaining about the boost.
The joy of cars! It's a 2.0L insignia 160bhp if that's any help.
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The three outlet pipes on top merely act as distributor for the vacuum, doesn't matter which pipe goes where. Make sure vacuum supply from pump goes to pipe underneath EGR cooler housing and you have a blank plug in place for the vacant pipe. On mine, One nearest radiator goes to boost control on slam panel, middle is blank, rear is to EGR motor valve thingy me bob..
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Thanks for the reply. The only part I'm not sure about is "vacuum supply from pump goes to pipe underneath EGR cooler housing" I have the pipe connected to the bottom of the housing but I'm not 100% on what the pump part is. The other two I have done as you described.
I know it's a lot to ask but would you mind sending me a photo of how yours is?
I'm currently waiting for a DPF pressure sensor to be delivered because that seems to have gone tits up at the same time.
Thanks again
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Thanks for all your help! Put all the pipes on as you explained previously and I have now cured the problem with the DPF pressure sensor.
I have now got a problem where the turbo isn't working. I have the error "turbo not learned" do you have any idea to what that could be?
Will it learn on it own or is it a manual job where you have to do or replace something?
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Hi,
Do you know if it possible to blind EGR cooler. Im presently away so I can`t track my car piping. I believe EGR cooler will be a branch of main cooling line so it can be blinded. However if it is the main line, should not blind it...
Still should test first the expansion tank, as my leak could be there...
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I think it would be possible to block the coolant ports, but this would mean taking of the cooler itself. However, as they aren't that expensive, and you have to remove it anyways, you could than better replace it with a new and keep the coolant lines open. Also, blocking the cooling ports would mean the hot exhaust gasses aren't cooled anymore but still fed back into the inlet, don't think that would be something you want...
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Originally posted by Ernst View PostI think it would be possible to block the coolant ports, but this would mean taking of the cooler itself. However, as they aren't that expensive, and you have to remove it anyways, you could than better replace it with a new and keep the coolant lines open. Also, blocking the cooling ports would mean the hot exhaust gasses aren't cooled anymore but still fed back into the inlet, don't think that would be something you want...
I have a leak and suspected it was from EGR cooler based on reputation. I changed it along with coolant. New coolant showed up a leak from the bottom nearside of the rad. Yet to fix.
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My EGR is software off and blinded. So no point of cooler. New cap may cost one in UK, and it is another story in Bulgaria. Shipping from UK is usually around £10..
Money are not a problem it is a challenge that moves me . Original cap survive 5 years, how long will survive the replacement. Still 55590953 looks like more reasonable option, so maybe I will do it that way.
Defiantly I prefer a hot then cooled EGR . It will advance start of ignition...
p.s
Confirm expansion tank is OK. And leak is from cooler. Dont knot if from gasket or body. I got the spare set... need to replace
Job done... not recommending doing yourself, quite nasty job... luckily got a good tool set. Spend a bit over 4hrs.
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Hi I’m new to this group I’ve just had my egr valve cooler replaced but it seems like a now have loss of power when driving from cold like it’s not boosting properly this only lasts for about 5 mins then it boosts fine did you have this issue?
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