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Replace / Repair ST Boot release switch

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  • Replace / Repair ST Boot release switch

    Here is guide on how to remove and repair the boot release switch on the ST.

    Important Update: 18/02/2013


    Dealer's parts dept now declare that the part can be obtained separately, priced at 7.14 + vat, but you have to ask for "the repair kit!"


    Part no: 13393912


    Dealers originally quote 84 for the harness, which has the touchpad, two number plate light plugs, connector. (125 fitted) the part number is 13295821, for the lot.


    Touchpad required gm no. 1339...... , only caught half the no on the photo..Doh! (Not available seperately according to spares dept, yet GM only change this in the service bulletin!, the paper tallies detail when the components were manufactured) Wiring harness 24/08/09 & Touchpad 08/11.


    Tools required: 7 & 10mm socket, extension bar, socket drive, 10 mm open ended spanner, flat blade screwdriver, a torch, a little courage.


    1. Remove the parcel shelf / security blind.


    2. Manually open the boot, by: Removing the plastic circular cap, near the warning triangle storage securing elastic.


    3. Using the flat blade, locate the small lever inside, place the blade edge into the small hole in the lever, and push it to the rear of the car.


    4. The latch should open, push the boot open.


    5. Remove three 7 mm bolts, (1 in the handle, 1 either end of the of the warning triangle storage elastics)



    6. Remove the two plastic clips, remember lift the centre out first.



    7. Remove the two white upper trim panels, starting with the right on 1st, shown above, then the left. remove from the centre join, held in by three spring clips each side, and locating guides onto the lower trim.


    8. Carefully pull the lower trim away, starting at the locking mechanism, working towards the wings, use the torch to see where the blue spring retaining clips are located, see below.



    9. Undo the 9 in number 10 mm nuts, (located as red below) 8 require socket access, 1 open ended. Note, there are four white locating plastic pegs, only one is visible from the inside.



    10. Unplug the number plate light and release switch plug.



    11. Carefully rest the boot nearly closed, to carefully prise off the chrome strip, and boot release section. be brave




    12. the expensive wiring harness can be removed, loosened, and the switch can be released from inside (4 retaining clips/lugs), the circled area shows the joints from when the switch was replaced before, under the TSB.



    13. Mine had visible signs of moisture,



    14. Took the panel and switch into the house, checked for continuity, between pins 1 & 3, pressed the button, nothing. Heated the switch for several minutes, continuity improved.


    15. Switch proved on the car, yes it works sealed the hidden side of the switch with silicon sealant, allowed to dry, tested and refitted.



    16. Reassembled the car, leaving the switch to dry thoroughly, and pushed it back into place. test again, v happy.

    Last edited by marko301; 25-08-2016, 01:54 PM.

  • #2
    Job well done mate,

    Just needs a wash!!
    sigpic

    Comment


    • #3
      Thx for the comments, yep it needs a clean!

      Cars out of warranty, though i am chasing under the TSB, which was done Nov 11, with Vx cust services, not sure which way that will go?

      I had sometime to play, after all it is just a switch. Even thought of looking at other switches to fit in there, as it is not a visible part. GM actaully do the "Touchpad" but not for sale seperatley />

      Comment


      • #4
        Logosgil, on 16 February 2013 - 09:05 PM, said:
        Job well done mate,

        Just needs a wash!!



        Guilt trip over!

        Comment


        • #5
          That will give the same solution, I was originally informed that the switch was unavailable separately, hence not wishing to damage it by prising it out, if it became damaged, there would be little choice other than the harness replacement, or completly different switch.



          Dealer's parts dept now declare that the part can be obtained separately, priced at ?7.14 + vat,??but you have to ask for "the repair kit!"



          20/2/13: just seen switch, it is the required part!



          Part no: 13393912



          This is only the switch and two fly leads, so you will be able to gouge out the old switch, cut the old wires singularly, having put some heat shrink sleeving over the wires, then solder in the new switch.



          If you can't get the switch, either pull the switch out as described, and clean,dry & refit, or remove the panelling as described in the guide....

          The choice ultimately is yours.

          Comment


          • #6
            After the saga with these switches, i have finally put some sealant between the chromed strip and the rear glass.



            I cleaned the gap to be sealed, put electrical tape either side of the area to seal, put black sealant in, (other colours available) pressed it in and smoothed with wetted finger, then pulled the tape off.

            All done nice clean sealed finish.

            Comment


            • #7
              I had this issue on my saloon.??I got the replacement switch a while ago off eBay but got round to replacing it over the weekend.??Sorry I didn't take any pics but I found while I could pry the switch out with a small screwdriver there wasn't enough slack in the cable that I was??confident I could strip the wire and solder while in situ.??



              In my case is simply removed the boot lid liner then removed the 4 bolts that hold the chrome strip and gently prized it off.??Note one of the bolts was rusted enough to cause me issues so definitely worth spraying some wd 40 before removal.??Once off, the switch and connector could be easily popped out of the panel and soldring the new switch was easy.??Note the repair kit came with around 5 inch's of cable which is way too much for the space in that area on the saloon so I trimmed it down to an inch and a half or so then soldered it on to the ends snipped from the old switch.??I then reassembled it and put it back together in short order (after testing of course).??I now have a working boot switch again that is back to being super responsive.??Very cheap and easy fix for me.

              Comment


              • #8
                Mine's just started playing up today....not sure if i can be arsed taking it to bits to repair.....so will be just buying the repair kit.



                ?4.87 delivered for the basic repair kit from GPS or seen the touchpad and connector on ebay for ?22....the latter would be easier, as i can't solder for ****!



                Would the basic kit be ok fitted with crimped butt connectors aslong as the heatshink was over them?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Anyone?????

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Cheers Camel...the switch arrived today and the connectors that are on it are where you just put the stripped wire in and crimp it in, so all is well.



                    A job for when i'm off work in a fortnight....that's if it doesnt piss me off too much first!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      euanT, on 02 February 2015 - 02:39 PM, said:
                      Do the pins on the repair kit not just push into the existing connector block????



                      In a word, no



                      They are not pins on the end of the wires, just connectors that you put the wire in and crimp.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        After doing mine this morning, i'd gladly pay the extra and get the switch and connector if it goes again....it's a complete and utter pain in the arse job in my opinion!

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          TheTiddles, on 28 February 2015 - 03:23 PM, said:
                          Just done my hatchback with the ?7 connector off eBay. If I had to do it again, I'd buy the connector assembly for ?22, saving 10 minutes of soldering, admittedly, I spent 30 minutes on soldering, as after stripping the wires to exactly match the current length, using smaller adhesive lined heat shrink than supplied in the kit (as it's too large for the wire gauge on the switch) then over-shrinking it for durability... I had inadvertently re-attached the dodgy switch I'd just cut off. I'm special like that.


                          Similar to what i did.....i used the connectors in the kit, then bound the lot together with leccy tape, only to realise once it was back plugged in and hearing a click, that i'd bound both metal connectors together under the leccy tape, meaning an open circuit.....i really dont know how other members call this an easy job....mind you, i have never been able to solder for some reason, i've tried all ways and can never do it right.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Huttoftnick, on 16 February 2013 - 04:24 PM, said:
                            Here is??guide on how to remove and repair the boot release switch on the ST.



                            Important Update: 18/02/2013

                            Dealer's parts dept now declare that the part can be obtained separately, priced at ?7.14 + vat,??but you have to ask for "the repair kit!"



                            Part no: 13393912



                            Dealers originally quote ?84 for the harness, which has the touchpad, two number plate light plugs, connector. (?125 fitted) the part number is 13295821, for the lot.



                            Touchpad required gm no. 1339...... , only caught half the no on the photo..Doh! (Not available seperately according to spares dept, yet GM only change this in the service bulletin!, the paper tallies detail when the components were manufactured) Wiring harness 24/08/09 & Touchpad 08/11.



                            Tools required: 7 & 10mm socket, extension bar, socket drive, 10 mm open ended spanner, flat blade screwdriver, a torch, a little courage.



                            1. Remove the parcel shelf / security blind.

                            2. Manually open the boot, by: Removing the plastic circular cap, near the warning triangle storage securing elastic.

                            3. Using the flat blade, locate the small lever inside, place the blade edge into the small hole in the lever, and push it to the rear of the car.

                            4. The latch should open, push the boot open.



                            5. Remove three 7 mm bolts, (1 in the handle, 1 either end of the of the warning triangle storage elastics)







                            6. Remove the two plastic clips, remember lift the centre out first.







                            7. Remove the two white upper trim panels, starting with the right on 1st, shown above, then the left. remove from the centre join, held in by three spring clips each side, and locating guides onto the lower trim.



                            8. Carefully pull the lower trim away, starting at the locking mechanism, working towards the wings, use the torch to see where the blue spring retaining clips are located, see below.







                            9. Undo the 9 in number 10 mm nuts, (located as red below) 8 require socket access, 1 open ended. Note, there are four white locating plastic pegs, only one is visible from the inside.







                            10. Unplug the number plate light and release switch plug.







                            11. Carefully rest the boot nearly closed, to carefully prise off the chrome strip, and boot release section. be brave











                            12. the expensive wiring harness can be removed, loosened, and the switch can be released from inside (4 retaining clips/lugs), the circled area shows the joints from when the switch was replaced before, under the TSB.









                            13. Mine had visible signs of moisture,







                            14. Took the panel and switch into the house, checked for continuity, between pins 1 & 3, pressed the button, nothing. Heated the switch for several minutes, continuity improved.



                            15. Switch proved on the car, yes it works />, sealed the hidden side of the switch with silicon sealant, allowed to dry, tested and refitted.







                            16. Reassembled the car, leaving the switch to dry thoroughly, and pushed it back into place. test again, v happy.

                            terrific how to,very good guide and pictures,hats off to you sir .

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              just got the part delivered today ?7.50 from fleabay,looks a quick job as well.just one question to those who have done this,as both wires are black can they be soldered to either way?

                              Comment

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