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Hi All,
I had some time this weekend so I decided to repair my headlights (I took the risk, either fix it or chop it )
1. lenses from Aliexpress : < 60e delivered for the pair, I only bought the left for 27e, the right one was almost new (just took me sometime to clean it from the glue)
2. housing from Aliexpress ~ 120e delivered for the pair
tools I used :
Torx T20 is your friend to take the ballast OFF and take all the part, DRL, 2 Chrome Parts and the electronic Card (around 8 screws per side)
Screwdriver and knife to open the old housing/lens
11mm spanner
1. heat the connection between the lens and the housing (I took my time to avoid damaging the chrome parts)
2. remove the lense
3. remove the outer chrome part, no fitting screws , just wiggle it and watch for it's wings as they help to position it/ fit it in the lens
4. remove the 2nd chrome part 4 screws, don't forget to unplug the cornering light
5. remove the DRL cluster (1 screw) , watch for the wires
6. unscrew the electronic part, I detached the plug and saved it somewhere safe to avoid dropping it. (you have better access once you remove the inner chrome part in step 4)
7. remove the main headlight motor, it is attached by 3 plastic clips which need to be detached, I used a small screwdriver to push the 2 parts in then pulled the black frame out.
8. remove the wire coming from the ballast, this will free the black frame holding the AFL motors and the bulb, there is a white plug to be taken out (I already loosened the ballast connector, you can easily do it once the ballast taken out, same principle close the little wings around and then push into the housing in it will come off )
9. remove the level motor and the adapters/screws, you need to detach it, same for the bottom blue one
10. disconnect the indicator bulb housing, there are 3 clips to loosen, I marked 2 of them
11. at this stage, you can take the DRL and all the wires OFF.
12. remove the long white and blue screws used for headlight levelling (the motor and the sliding adapters shouldn't be here, taken on step 9, I forgot to take a picture without them)
this one took me some time, as I couldn't find a way to take them out without damaging the housing, but there was no chance for me,
I had to cut the rear side to remove both of them from the back, then cut more to take the vertical brown screw (watch for the seal)
13. Don't forget the sliver bolt (11mm)
14. that was the last step to get rid of the old housing, now, time to reverse the steps on the new housing
PS.
A> Be carful with those white and blue levelling screws : you push them in, then you push the vertical brown fastener screw in.
B> Test before you glue your lens, in case you forgot a plug wire, or the AFL frame does not move
C> be carful with the chrome parts, it is very soft, don't polish it
did some testing, all good (didn't test the cornering, yet, I need to test both left and right)
it costs me 160e and 4 hours of my time, as I was going slow (first time)
it can be handy if someone who needs to fix the DRL, I guess LEDs to be replaced or full cluster, still cheaper than full light.
hope if it useful for someone.
I had some time this weekend so I decided to repair my headlights (I took the risk, either fix it or chop it )
1. lenses from Aliexpress : < 60e delivered for the pair, I only bought the left for 27e, the right one was almost new (just took me sometime to clean it from the glue)
2. housing from Aliexpress ~ 120e delivered for the pair
tools I used :
Torx T20 is your friend to take the ballast OFF and take all the part, DRL, 2 Chrome Parts and the electronic Card (around 8 screws per side)
Screwdriver and knife to open the old housing/lens
11mm spanner
1. heat the connection between the lens and the housing (I took my time to avoid damaging the chrome parts)
2. remove the lense
3. remove the outer chrome part, no fitting screws , just wiggle it and watch for it's wings as they help to position it/ fit it in the lens
4. remove the 2nd chrome part 4 screws, don't forget to unplug the cornering light
5. remove the DRL cluster (1 screw) , watch for the wires
6. unscrew the electronic part, I detached the plug and saved it somewhere safe to avoid dropping it. (you have better access once you remove the inner chrome part in step 4)
7. remove the main headlight motor, it is attached by 3 plastic clips which need to be detached, I used a small screwdriver to push the 2 parts in then pulled the black frame out.
8. remove the wire coming from the ballast, this will free the black frame holding the AFL motors and the bulb, there is a white plug to be taken out (I already loosened the ballast connector, you can easily do it once the ballast taken out, same principle close the little wings around and then push into the housing in it will come off )
9. remove the level motor and the adapters/screws, you need to detach it, same for the bottom blue one
10. disconnect the indicator bulb housing, there are 3 clips to loosen, I marked 2 of them
11. at this stage, you can take the DRL and all the wires OFF.
12. remove the long white and blue screws used for headlight levelling (the motor and the sliding adapters shouldn't be here, taken on step 9, I forgot to take a picture without them)
this one took me some time, as I couldn't find a way to take them out without damaging the housing, but there was no chance for me,
I had to cut the rear side to remove both of them from the back, then cut more to take the vertical brown screw (watch for the seal)
13. Don't forget the sliver bolt (11mm)
14. that was the last step to get rid of the old housing, now, time to reverse the steps on the new housing
PS.
A> Be carful with those white and blue levelling screws : you push them in, then you push the vertical brown fastener screw in.
B> Test before you glue your lens, in case you forgot a plug wire, or the AFL frame does not move
C> be carful with the chrome parts, it is very soft, don't polish it
did some testing, all good (didn't test the cornering, yet, I need to test both left and right)
it costs me 160e and 4 hours of my time, as I was going slow (first time)
it can be handy if someone who needs to fix the DRL, I guess LEDs to be replaced or full cluster, still cheaper than full light.
hope if it useful for someone.
Attached Files