Insignia b front brake pad change

[Kezo1995]

Good evening just thought I’d try to do a little tutorial for changing the front brake pads, I had a day off so I got the chance to get this little job done and I actually remembered to take pictures this time since I forgot to on the rear.

Tools required:

- Pliers
- 14mm spanner
- Brake grease
- Flat head screwdriver(if old pads are stiff)
- Car jack
- Axle stands
- 19mm socket and bar(for removing the wheel)
- Brake cleaner
- G clamp

Job time: around 1 hour depending on experience.
Job difficulty: easy.



1. Loosen off the wheel nuts then jack the vehicle up and remove then wheel bolts then remove wheel.

2. Remove the brake fluid cap. Picture 1.

3. Loosen the top bolt and remove the bottom bolt the spanner size for these bolts were 14mm. Picture 2.

4. Slide the bottom of the calliper away and swing it upwards and then remove the old brake pads (red box) these just slide out and retract the piston(green arrow). I just used a regular g clamp for doing this as it does not need wound in like the rears and just needs the pressure to retract. Picture 3.

5. Clean up the calliper and disc with some brake cleaner. Picture 4.

6. After everything is nice and clean put some grease on the piston and on the back of the pad that touches the piston being careful not to get any grease on the brake disc! PictureS 5,6 and 7.

7. Next slide in the new brake pads making sure not to get any grease on the brake disc. Picture 8. There are little pins that the pads should push in with them I’ve tried to circle them these are at the top and bottom of the pads so make sure there on the inside of where the pads slide in and not still sticking out. picture 9

8. Slide the calliper back over the pads and insert the bottom bolt back in and tighten both the top and bottom bolt I’m sure the torque setting for these two bolts is 25nm but don’t quote me on this haha tight will do.

9. Put the wheel back on and lower the jack and tighten the wheel nuts to 125nm.

10. after you have done this for both sets on the front axle put the brake fluid cap back on and jump in the car and pump the brake pedal a few times till it’s stiff but not to much or you might cause the brake fluid to leak with to much pressure.

11. Providing everything has been done correctly the job should be a good one. I always take my car out for a little drive after doing these jobs to make sure everything is working as it should.

if anyone has any suggestions or if I have missed something please feel free to add it to the topic.

[Howy]

Good job and description there

[Kezo1995]

Good job and description there

Thank you tried to make it as clear as possible.

[marko301]

Nice one! I've made it a sticky so it stays at the top.

[Kezo1995]

Nice one! I've made it a sticky so it stays at the top.

Thank you Mark hopefully it’ll help someone, seen the problems others are having with there rears getting done.

[Brian147]

Would this be the same process for insignia A? I want to change discs too. Looks the same process.


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[nathan.martin.uk]

Would this be the same process for insignia A? I want to change discs too. Looks the same process.


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The rear is a ball ache, you need a rewind tool for the rear callipers as they need to be rotated as being pushed back. I made the same assumption in January when I came to do my pads. Another tool in the collection I suppose

[Brian147]

The rear is a ball ache, you need a rewind tool for the rear callipers as they need to be rotated as being pushed back. I made the same assumption in January when I came to do my pads. Another tool in the collection I suppose

It’s the front ones I’m doing. The rear just need fresh pads, the discs are ok.


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[nathan.martin.uk]

It’s the front ones I’m doing. The rear just need fresh pads, the discs are ok.


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Ah, my apologies, at least you know now what to do with the rear! The fronts dont need specific tools on the A nor the facelift A I used a G Clamp for the fronts as a rewind tool, worked great, although a slight bit of persuasion with the square socketed end of an 8 inch extension helped

[Brian147]

Ah, my apologies, at least you know now what to do with the rear! The fronts dont need specific tools on the A nor the facelift A I used a G Clamp for the fronts as a rewind tool, worked great, although a slight bit of persuasion with the square socketed end of an 8 inch extension helped

Nice one, hoping to change them after work tomorrow in the shed. Glad the piston is handy enough to push back and not a complete pain!


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[Howy]

Undoo the bleed nipple,saves any crap entering the abs system and will make it easier to push the piston backand check condition of the shims R and L,the rears will still need to be wound back to fit the pads

[Brian147]

Undoo the bleed nipple,saves any crap entering the abs system,the rears will still need to be wound back to fit the pads

Undo the nipple while pushing piston back on front brakes? Would I still keep cap off the reservoir? Also


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[Howy]

Yep,puts no back pressure on the abs pump and prevents any crap getting into the system,put a rag around the nipple to soak the expelled fluid,keep the reservoir cap on,fit discs/pads,don't forget to push brake pedal when done and check fluid level.

[Brian147]

Yep,puts no back pressure on the abs pump and prevents any crap getting into the system,put a rag around the nipple to soak the expelled fluid,keep the reservoir cap on,fit discs/pads,don't forget to push brake pedal when done and check fluid level.

Ok so release the nipple, wind back piston and re tighten nipple once wound back then fit deists etc?


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[Howy]

thats it.