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  • #16
    Originally posted by marko301 View Post

    Lots of the buttons pretty cheap on ebay. Might be worth trying one before pulling the car to bits.
    Just ordered one there as it seems to be a button issue or as mentioned before a cable running from the button to the motor as the motor is functioning fine


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    • #17
      Originally posted by Karlc28 View Post

      Just ordered one there as it seems to be a button issue or as mentioned before a cable running from the button to the motor as the motor is functioning fine


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      Hopefully just the button. They take some hammer over the years....More pulling them on than releasing due to the clutch/accelerator option.
      2017 Vauxhall Insignia Grand Sport Sri Nav 1.5 (165ps) Turbo petrol in Lava Red - Keyless entry and start - 18 five spoke alloy wheels - Front fog lights - Tinted rear windows - Aluminium sports pedals - Ambient interior led lighting - Front and rear parking assist - Active emergency braking - Forward collision assist - Front pedestrian alert - Traffic sign recognition - Lane keep assist - Cruise control - Speed warning and limiter - Voice recognition - Bluetooth - Duel zone climate control - Front and rear electric windows - High beam assist - Auto lights - Auto wipers - Wifi hotspot - 8 colour touchscreen Navi 900 with Android Auto, Apple Car Play and DAB

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      • #18
        The cars only 4 years old....nothing lasts these days


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        • #19
          I could be talking nonsense so disregard if so but here's what I did when I had the exact same dash light and service handbrake. I jacked up rear both sides and put on stands.

          Then a good visual inspection of the handbrake coming out of module on left side and the two sides of cable extending to the mechanical actuators on caliper.

          I commanded mine via my scan tool in my case a think diag to rule out any chance it was electric switch. As others have said see if u can get motor to command with scan tool, if it does give both wheels a spin and check whether both free both locked or one of each which is another good diagnostic clue.

          For me it was a mechanical issue and urs could well be electric. If that was case for me I'd p4ob be ripping out switch and testing Contibuity with multimeter ie simplest first

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          • #20
            So motor moves on command with diagnostic tool and nothing seems to catch when spinning the wheels with handbrake released

            New switch arrived today and still doesn't work
            So completely stumped now dealership wants 99 to do wiring check so not sure what to do as mot is due in 3 weeks


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            • #21
              Have you checked for a broken cable?
              Insignia Elite 16T,Royal Blue non Nav. + added,
              Heko Wind Deflectors,Alloy Pedal Covers.Led full Interior,Polished Alloy Door Pins,Osram Diadem Opel Rear indicator Bulbs,Led Reverse Light Upgrade,Gear Surround Red Leds,Led reg plate lights,Nighteye Fog lamp Bulbs,Osram Night Breaker Laser Cornering Bulbs,Rear Sunblinds,Nextbase 522GW front/rear window cam,upgraded front speakers,SS Exhaust,6000k Xenon Bulbs,Thinkdiag Diagnostic Tool

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              • #22
                As far as I can see everything is intact


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                • #23
                  As per R2D2 Comment about continuity at the switch plug , if you have a multimeter you should be able to check for power and grounds,
                  depending on how many wires , you should have 12 volts signal with ignition on.
                  5 volt reference, and atleast an earth .
                  You could also check for resistance down the wires higher resistance means you have a break in the wire
                  thats if you feel comfortable doing it .


                  .K.M.P.C.U
                  YEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAAA

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by lizzard-t View Post
                    As per R2D2 Comment about continuity at the switch plug , if you have a multimeter you should be able to check for power and grounds,
                    depending on how many wires , you should have 12 volts signal with ignition on.
                    5 volt reference, and atleast an earth .
                    You could also check for resistance down the wires higher resistance means you have a break in the wire
                    thats if you feel comfortable doing it .
                    I have a multimeter but wouldn’t know how to test the button ie which pins to check I know there is power to the button as the symbol on the button lights up when ignition on but that’s as fast as I’ve got


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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Karlc28 View Post

                      I have a multimeter but wouldn’t know how to test the button ie which pins to check I know there is power to the button as the symbol on the button lights up when ignition on but that’s as fast as I’ve got


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                      I would get familiar with the tools you have.

                      No point in having them if you've no clue on what to do......not a criticism, but the amount of people who own tools, just to say "I've got one" is pointless.

                      Knowing how to work a tool can save you a small fortune mate.

                      There may be power to the switch, but obviously the power is not going from the command switch to the release.

                      You need to check continuity at the actual handbrake motor.
                      Or double check fuses, relays etc.

                      You can have a fault in these even though they look ok.

                      If it's going in using the diagnostic machine, then it's definitely a wire/electrical issue.

                      And it should last longer than 4 years.
                      https://insignia-drivers.uk/filedata/fetch?filedataid=7610&sigpic=1

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                      • #26
                        So u know motor is good as it can be commanded with a scan tool and presumably locks both rear wheel? 2hivh would mean cable from motor is intact. U have bought and presumably correctly installed a new switch, which unless some horrible luck means that's good.as others have said the fault has to lie in the physical wiring/fuses/release from the switch switch the motor.

                        Again it's what u feel comfortable with. In theory multimeters could damage delicate items or the multineter can be damaged if used incorrectly. Just making u aware. Having said that I usually go in blind and have never damaged anything. As lizzqrd said in standard wiring I'd be looking for my 12 volt feed by grounding one prob of the meter and probing the 3 wires. Once u find 12 volt u would be checking for volt drop along circuit. The do same for 5v ref but it won't be constant supply will prob just be when switched engaged. Finally and often overlooked u need to confirm good ground which could be done by checking low resistance between known good ground.

                        When I have ab issue u always just search for another car on utube with a similar set up and see how others are testing. But it's important to know when diy is costing more both in terms of time and money. I myself have farmed out many electrical issues having been beaten and frustrated.no shame

                        Hope that helps I'm not 4eally an electrical guy

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                        • #27
                          Appreciate all the help from you all when it comes to testing wiring it just sound like Mumbai jumbo to me haha but least it’s narrowed down to the wiring which hopefully a local auto spark should be able to work out where the issue lies and get it sorted


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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Karlc28 View Post
                            Appreciate all the help from you all when it comes to testing wiring it just sound like Mumbai jumbo to me haha but least it’s narrowed down to the wiring which hopefully a local auto spark should be able to work out where the issue lies and get it sorted


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                            Good independent auto electrician or a mechanic with a known interest in electrics will sort this quicker than u can turn on ur liven room light

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                            • #29
                              So took it to an auto spark who got a code
                              C0293 parking brake switch circuit
                              Voltage low/open circuit
                              Left the car with them and he says all his tests are coming back ok
                              So recommended taking the car to Vauxhall


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                              • #30
                                Potentially the module may need replaced which I ven pick up used cheap enough but I'm under the impression these need coded to the car which I'm assuming is a vauxhall only job


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