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  • Rear Right Brake caliper

    Hi All,

    Not been on here for a while - Which without sounding rude is a good thing in my book! (no car problems)

    I couldnt find a brake section and through the wheels are the closest thing to the brakes so posted in here.

    Any how I have a niggling problem with the rear right hand side brake. Its getting very hot and binding a bit. Ive changed the pads because the others were shot, I lubed up the pins with red rubber grease, the end of one of the pins had a rubber boot which had swollen I've removed that to see if that resolved the problem but have orders a new pin just to be on the safe side - If the bush is there, its there for a reason.

    When I replaced the pads and I went to wind the caliper back it took all my effort with a winder tool and a long wrench on the end to give me enough torque to wind it in. It took about an hour to wind it in.
    Im pretty sure the caliper is shot but I was wondering if the E Brake needs resetting after a pad change and if i've cocked up on that side of things.

    Also if I do get a new caliper - Ive been looking on ECP and they are all recon and £190 but ive searched google and found new ones for £50. Here Vehicle Brake Calipers | Buy Braking Parts | Energized Customs but they dont say electric brake the look the same but....
    Do you have suppliers that you use to get callipers?
    Once I replace the caliper do i just bleed that side or the whole system?
    Do you normally get the copper washer when you but a caliper or do I have to source this separately?


    Sorry for all the questions - Just brain dumping!

    Cheers

    Ian

  • #2
    Sound like the piston is seizing hence your brake is draging so new caliper require
    if your e brake is working fine then all well.
    The link you gave , message the seller to confirm wether its for an e brake ,any good parts supplier will do its a question of your money
    they don't come with the copper washer.
    And bleed the whole braking system once fitted.


    .K.M.P.C.U
    YEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAAA

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    • #3
      Nice 1 thanks for the quick response much appreciated.

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Xospherix View Post
        Hi All,

        Not been on here for a while - Which without sounding rude is a good thing in my book! (no car problems)

        I couldnt find a brake section and through the wheels are the closest thing to the brakes so posted in here.

        Any how I have a niggling problem with the rear right hand side brake. Its getting very hot and binding a bit. Ive changed the pads because the others were shot, I lubed up the pins with red rubber grease, the end of one of the pins had a rubber boot which had swollen I've removed that to see if that resolved the problem but have orders a new pin just to be on the safe side - If the bush is there, its there for a reason.

        When I replaced the pads and I went to wind the caliper back it took all my effort with a winder tool and a long wrench on the end to give me enough torque to wind it in. It took about an hour to wind it in.
        Im pretty sure the caliper is shot but I was wondering if the E Brake needs resetting after a pad change and if i've cocked up on that side of things.

        Also if I do get a new caliper - Ive been looking on ECP and they are all recon and £190 but ive searched google and found new ones for £50. Here Vehicle Brake Calipers | Buy Braking Parts | Energized Customs but they dont say electric brake the look the same but....
        Do you have suppliers that you use to get callipers?
        Once I replace the caliper do i just bleed that side or the whole system?
        Do you normally get the copper washer when you but a caliper or do I have to source this separately?


        Sorry for all the questions - Just brain dumping!

        Cheers

        Ian
        I had this issue, my rear wheel was always caked in brake dust when the other were clean.

        i went on ebay and brought a piston rebuild kit and new pad springs. My slider pins were ok so didnt ned to change them. I also bled a flushed the whole system. Touch wood it has been fine ever since

        I would highly advise you change the pad springs as they are a pretty tight fit anyway and any sort or distortion will grip the pad and stop it moving

        Comment


        • #5
          Cheers I did think about getting the piston but thought if it doesn't work then I'm screwed. I've got the caliper on it's way and a one man bleed kit.

          What sequence did you use to bleed?

          Comment


          • #6
            I'm sure it's furthest away-right rear,left rear,right front and left front.
            Insignia Elite 16T,Royal Blue non Nav. + added,
            Heko Wind Deflectors,Alloy Pedal Covers.Led full Interior,Polished Alloy Door Pins,Osram Diadem Opel Rear indicator Bulbs,Led Reverse Light Upgrade,Gear Surround Red Leds,Led reg plate lights,Nighteye Fog lamp Bulbs,Osram Night Breaker Laser Cornering Bulbs,Rear Sunblinds,Nextbase 522GW front/rear window cam,upgraded front speakers,SS Exhaust,6000k Xenon Bulbs,Thinkdiag Diagnostic Tool

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