How would you tackle this rear trailing arm

[RB02259]

I am replacing both rear trailing arms after mot failure. They were hard to get at reasonable price but that's a separate story. They're newing delivered next week

Took wheels off to clean bolts and soak in penetrant and noticed one side the bushing is broken out and blocking one of the bolts

When I remove the other bolts will I be able to leverage this out so I can get at the bolt or is it an angle grinder job through the arm and Bush casing?

Best

Ryan

[lizzard-t]

You may find the Bush may fall out as you take the weight off it .
But as long as you have a good angle grinder with the proper blade then you may be able to get the Bush out that way .
Just hope those bolts come out they do look crusty .
If it was me I would be replacing them .
But that a personal point of view.

[RB02259]

You may find the Bush may fall out as you take the weight off it .
But as long as you have a good angle grinder with the proper blade then you may be able to get the Bush out that way .
Just hope those bolts come out they do look crusty .
If it was me I would be replacing them .
But that a personal point of view.

Thanks Mr lizzard will do

I agree and that's the bolts after being cleaned up a bit with wire wheel and plenty of wd 40. Think I will replace the bolts as u say and hfully as u say bushing will fall out or angle grinder will sort it

[G!zzard1533]

Think it’s been covered how to tackle them, but I’d also try a bit of heat on them and then this may sound strange but try and tighten the bolts before you undo them.

[RB02259]

Think it’s been covered how to tackle them, but I’d also try a bit of heat on them and then this may sound strange but try and tighten the bolts before you undo them.

Thanks mate I have a powerful dewalt impact wrench but I'm guessing that's a no for this and I should instead apply heat and then tighten before trying to loosen with a breaker bar?

[G!zzard1533]

Personally I always like to do it by hand when bolts are rusty like yours, you get more feel on the bolt and less likely to strip the head of it. Plus I use a Makita DTW1001 (1050nm max torque) for work and sometimes the bolts still require the old manual breaking before the gun will spin the nuts off.

you want to work that bolt in and out bit by bit like when your tapping a new thread, that should break any rust off it and the clear it out allowing for an easier removal

[RB02259]

Personally I always like to do it by hand when bolts are rusty like yours, you get more feel on the bolt and less likely to strip the head of it. Plus I use a Makita DTW1001 (1050nm max torque) for work and sometimes the bolts still require the old manual breaking before the gun will spin the nuts off.

you want to work that bolt in and out bit by bit like when your tapping a new thread, that should break any rust off it and the clear it out allowing for an easier removal

Thanks for the tips I will do all that and hopefully walk the bolt put then replace the bolts for good measure will report back how I get on

[G!zzard1533]

Thanks for the tips I will do all that and hopefully walk the bolt put then replace the bolts for good measure will report back how I get on

Yeah I’d replace those bolts regardless of how easy they could come out just because of the condition and age of them. If they were untouched then I wouldn’t worry but as your “disturbing” them I’d replace. Good luck

[lizzard-t]

Just remember thease bolts go into captive nuts . So the use of a impact gun of any description would be the furthest from my mind.
IF you are not using the car then spend an hour just easing those bolts out .heat is a good friend but don't go excessive and keep away from anything flammable or any evap system.
But remember slowly slowly catchie monkey.
But you 2 seem to have it licked so just crack on.

[RB02259]

Just remember thease bolts go into captive nuts . So the use of a impact gun of any description would be the furthest from my mind.
IF you are not using the car then spend an hour just easing those bolts out .heat is a good friend but don't go excessive and keep away from anything flammable or any evap system.
But remember slowly slowly catchie monkey.
But you 2 seem to have it licked so just crack on.

Thanks lizzard and good point I noticed some of the bolts go into threads cut into the frame of the car so a potential for a real headache of they snap or even mess up the threads

[RB02259]

Update as promised

Went out today and soaked in wd40 hit few times with hammer then went for it. Strangely bushing side was easy and hub side was hard but a bit of heat did the trick
i also removed bolts for shock which were also quite crusty.

Bout an hour spent. Tomorrow will remove other side then fit. The other side looks worse so soaked with wd40 again to improve chances.

Leverage was hard but I used long ratchet and pulled up from exhaust side rather than push from car side.

Ryan

[RB02259]

Job done surprisingly shock annoyed me more than arm. The wee 20nm nut on top is hard to torque as it spins and didn't want to clamp down too hard on new shocks. Put welding gauntlet in between grips

Does anyone know how many rubber stops there are meant to be for the rear shock? One side had two and the other one. Basically the rubber mount partly degraded in the picture is missing on left side. Not even sure if it goes there as it fell apart before I could see the fitment.

Will it being missing cause an issue at MOT? Sure hope not after all that work

Few other pics of old arm and new.

Ryan

[Howy]

One 'spongy' type bump stop under plastic cover each side,usualy part of plastic cover.

[RB02259]

One 'spongy' type bump stop under plastic cover each side,usualy part of plastic cover.

Cheers howy, well one side is missing it, from everything I've read online so far shouldn't be an issue for the retest so so let's hope haha

[Howy]

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RB02259