How would you tackle this rear trailing arm

[lizzard-t]

Keep on insigniaring R2D2 .
It's very satisfying doing stuff yourself.
Like playing with your love sausage and thinking about an albatross.

[.R.B.H.]

Nice one, Ryan #thumbsup

[Howy]

Good news!

[RB02259]

Passed the mot tonight so let's my insignia good for another year hopefully also just hit 150k miles on way home

Keep trucking

Ryan

[RB02259]

Auw nightmare it has both dust covers just not the rubber bump stop but at this point I think I'll have to hope for best

[.R.B.H.]

Cheers howy, well one side is missing it, from everything I've read online so far shouldn't be an issue for the retest so so let's hope haha

Just hope n pray, the mot tester doesn't notice it.
we do mot work and any that we've taken has failed for this.
They stipulate that the dust cover is to keep out contaminates and helps keep the shock absorber lubricated.

[Howy]

Similar items avail:Rear Shock Absorber Top Dust Cover Vauxhall Insignia A Mk1 13315197 New Original | eBay
RB02259

[RB02259]

One 'spongy' type bump stop under plastic cover each side,usualy part of plastic cover.

Cheers howy, well one side is missing it, from everything I've read online so far shouldn't be an issue for the retest so so let's hope haha

[Howy]

One 'spongy' type bump stop under plastic cover each side,usualy part of plastic cover.

[RB02259]

Job done surprisingly shock annoyed me more than arm. The wee 20nm nut on top is hard to torque as it spins and didn't want to clamp down too hard on new shocks. Put welding gauntlet in between grips

Does anyone know how many rubber stops there are meant to be for the rear shock? One side had two and the other one. Basically the rubber mount partly degraded in the picture is missing on left side. Not even sure if it goes there as it fell apart before I could see the fitment.

Will it being missing cause an issue at MOT? Sure hope not after all that work

Few other pics of old arm and new.

Ryan

[RB02259]

Update as promised

Went out today and soaked in wd40 hit few times with hammer then went for it. Strangely bushing side was easy and hub side was hard but a bit of heat did the trick
i also removed bolts for shock which were also quite crusty.

Bout an hour spent. Tomorrow will remove other side then fit. The other side looks worse so soaked with wd40 again to improve chances.

Leverage was hard but I used long ratchet and pulled up from exhaust side rather than push from car side.

Ryan

[RB02259]

Just remember thease bolts go into captive nuts . So the use of a impact gun of any description would be the furthest from my mind.
IF you are not using the car then spend an hour just easing those bolts out .heat is a good friend but don't go excessive and keep away from anything flammable or any evap system.
But remember slowly slowly catchie monkey.
But you 2 seem to have it licked so just crack on.

Thanks lizzard and good point I noticed some of the bolts go into threads cut into the frame of the car so a potential for a real headache of they snap or even mess up the threads

[lizzard-t]

Just remember thease bolts go into captive nuts . So the use of a impact gun of any description would be the furthest from my mind.
IF you are not using the car then spend an hour just easing those bolts out .heat is a good friend but don't go excessive and keep away from anything flammable or any evap system.
But remember slowly slowly catchie monkey.
But you 2 seem to have it licked so just crack on.

[G!zzard1533]

Thanks for the tips I will do all that and hopefully walk the bolt put then replace the bolts for good measure will report back how I get on

Yeah I’d replace those bolts regardless of how easy they could come out just because of the condition and age of them. If they were untouched then I wouldn’t worry but as your “disturbing” them I’d replace. Good luck

[RB02259]

Personally I always like to do it by hand when bolts are rusty like yours, you get more feel on the bolt and less likely to strip the head of it. Plus I use a Makita DTW1001 (1050nm max torque) for work and sometimes the bolts still require the old manual breaking before the gun will spin the nuts off.

you want to work that bolt in and out bit by bit like when your tapping a new thread, that should break any rust off it and the clear it out allowing for an easier removal

Thanks for the tips I will do all that and hopefully walk the bolt put then replace the bolts for good measure will report back how I get on