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Limp mode, DPF and boost valve codes intermittent - 2.0 CDTi

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  • Limp mode, DPF and boost valve codes intermittent - 2.0 CDTi

    Hi guys, hoping for some help narrowing down a problem with my 2009 Insignia 2.0 CDTi.

    I had an injector seal go a few weeks back and took it to a mate who is a mechanic. He took out the injectors, cleaned the injector seats and renewed the seals/washers underneath. The car was running perfect before this, even with the leaky injector, just smoky under the bonnet.

    When I got the car back it was seriously underpowered, barely getting to between 1500rpm to 2000rpm. The service vehicle soon warning was also on.

    He checked it with his diagnostics kit and it came up with a DPF regen code and a boost valve code.

    He tried multiple forced DPF regenerations but each of them failed. He suggested maybe a different diagnostic kit would work.

    The last time I had a DPF code it was actually the common fault of a split boost hose (about 70000 miles ago) which I changed myself and it solved the problem and put all the lights out. I donÂ’t remember it losing that much power that time but I was pretty sure it was going to be that hose again.

    IÂ’ve felt around the hose without removing it and canÂ’t feel or see any splits in it this time.

    I checked the fault codes again with a basic code reader and it now only showed “P2453 Diesel Particulate Filter Differential Pressure Sensor Circuit Range / Performance” and the Engine Management light is now on along with a message saying DPF full, refer to manual.

    IÂ’m not convinced the DPF is actually the root cause and think it may be a side effect of being limited to such low revs and not able to clear itself. I think this might also be why the forced regens failed but IÂ’m probably wrong about that!

    Having read a few similar posts IÂ’m now suspicious of the Boost Control Valve which I donÂ’t remember ever having changed and the car is at 120,000 miles.
    I got in the car today and started it up and noticed a humming/buzzing noise that lasted maybe ten seconds at most. I have read that this is one of the symptoms of this valve going faulty. I havenÂ’t noticed that before or heard it since.

    It appears to be a common fault and an easy thing to change but IÂ’m just wondering if anyone has had a similar experience with it and if IÂ’m on the right track?

    Any help or advice is much appreciated.

    Thanks in advance!

  • #2
    Hello first and foremost you have got to get the car out of limp mode / limited performance mode .
    The code you have points towards differential pressure sensor wiring on the DPF pressure sensor circuit range / performance.
    You will have to locate the differential pressure sensor which is normally located on the fire wall with 2 tubes coming off down to the DPF .you will have to locate the wiring , if it's 3 wire then you have power , ground and trigger , power 12v plus or minus depending on battery voltage,ground ( negative) trigger 5v reference voltage at ignition on .
    If any fall out of parameters then check wiring .
    If all wiring is ok and not out of perameters then the pressure sensor itself.
    As you can understand the car will only regen when certain conditions are met .
    1) engine temperature above 65degrees Celsius +/-
    2) some work on engine speed above 900 rpm ( pre 2012)
    3) differential pressure between inlet and exit of DPF inlet runs at 75 bar , should be slightly lower on exit .
    If inlet runs higher and exit remains about the same as before then with all the above conditions then it will perform a regen .
    You really require something like opcom to read live data .
    The way it sounds is that the DPF is full the differential pressure circuit is faulty so the car will not perform a regen.
    First check level and smell of oil on dip stick ( if higher than max ) then stop using the car replace oil and filter .as oil quality has suffered .and it's degraded ,
    Once done then check MAF and map sensor and clean , check for air leaks on induction system .
    You will not be able to get it out of limp mode till differential pressure circuit problems are sorted .
    Once that's done you may be able to carry out a forced regen by finding an open road and keeping revs above 2500 for as long as it takes .
    But with current situation that's not possible.
    On opcom you should be able to carry out a forced regen.
    Once the above is sorted .


    .K.M.P.C.U
    YEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAAA

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    • #3
      The boost sensor is easy and cheap enough to change, don't know why your mechanic decided to repair all 4 of the injectors when only one had a problem, the car will not do a regen if all of the parameters are not met and any existing fault codes are not looked at and the necessary repairs are done, could be that you have sensor problems in the exhaust system and this is why the car is in limp mode, you do need to have a decent diagnostic device for the insignia as most won't work, where are you in the UK as someone may be able to help, so starting with a proper diagnostic tool first would be the way to go---Dave

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      • #4
        Hi both, thanks for the responses. I’m afraid the first one is beyond my capabilities so it looks like I’ll need to get it in a garage after all.

        Was really just wondering if the boost control valve could somehow trigger these symptoms of low power and if it could cause a DPF code to come up alongside the boost control valve code.

        From your response Lizzard-t, it seems that’s not the case and it needs a good bit more investigation and repair.

        Dave, I’m just outside of Glasgow but I’ll probably just try and find a Local garage that is open to have a look at it.

        Thanks again for getting back to me.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by smitrocks View Post
          Hi both, thanks for the responses. I’m afraid the first one is beyond my capabilities so it looks like I’ll need to get it in a garage after all.

          Was really just wondering if the boost control valve could somehow trigger these symptoms of low power and if it could cause a DPF code to come up alongside the boost control valve code.

          From your response Lizzard-t, it seems that’s not the case and it needs a good bit more investigation and repair.

          Dave, I’m just outside of Glasgow but I’ll probably just try and find a Local garage that is open to have a look at it.

          Thanks again for getting back to me.
          Where abouts.....just outside Glasgow??

          Comment


          • #6
            RBH, I live in Kilsyth mate.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by smitrocks View Post
              RBH, I live in Kilsyth mate.
              ahhhh right

              pity your not closer to Wishaw.
              My son has a garage there and he's time served with Vauxhall

              Comment


              • #8
                If you can I would be making the trip over to see Rab's son as I know that they will know the cars inside out------Dave

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                • #9
                  Thanks guys, thought I’d responded to this to say I’d take the car there if I could but the thing won’t even go up hills right now!

                  Also to say the last time I was out in it I heard a pop followed by a loud hissing and gas escaping under the bonnet.

                  Turns out there’s a split in a pipe, luckily the number on it is very clear 55566187 which, upon checking, is listed as an exhaust pressure difference sensor pipe.

                  Question is, could this have been the issue all along? Could it have been a small split causing pressure loss then by driving it I’ve completely burst it open? There’s about an inch long split along it. Notably this pipe is run slightly incorrectly through its clips, missing one completely which suggests it may have been changed at some point before.

                  Going to give it a go and change this pipe then see what happens. Has anyone done this before? If so, what were your car’s symptoms and are the clips one time use only, because they look that way.

                  Thanks again for your responses. Click image for larger version

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                  • #10
                    It could have been the problem in the first place.
                    Please come back and update when you have replaced the pipe for future reference.
                    LED interior lights. Chrome mirror caps & door handle covers. LED reverse light bulbs. Pedal box. Atomic Alloys. Steel Structure spare wheel. Boot floor risers. Rear exit exhaust & rear valance. M Y ‘15’ front grille.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yeah, I will do. Just trying to source the hose and find out if I need the metal pipe that it joins onto at the back of the engine or if I can just buy the rubber part,

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hi, quick update. I patched up the hose temporarily to check if this solved all issues rather than blow the new hose too. So it turns out there was another hissing noise masked by the burst hose. ItÂ’s coming from the underside of the DPF sensor, I can feel the gas escaping and itÂ’s moist and sooty underneath.

                        Any idea what would be causing this? Is it backing up from the DPF which is full or is the sensor just blown and needing replacing (and causing the P2453 code)

                        Looks a fairly easy job to do the sensor along with the hose to be honest but trying to confirm the problem. I had reset the code and it was back after restarting the engine with the patched up hose.

                        This sensor only has one inlet, I was expecting it to have two but this might have changed at some point.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by smitrocks View Post
                          Hi, quick update. I patched up the hose temporarily to check if this solved all issues rather than blow the new hose too. So it turns out there was another hissing noise masked by the burst hose. ItÂ’s coming from the underside of the DPF sensor, I can feel the gas escaping and itÂ’s moist and sooty underneath.

                          Any idea what would be causing this? Is it backing up from the DPF which is full or is the sensor just blown and needing replacing (and causing the P2453 code)

                          Looks a fairly easy job to do the sensor along with the hose to be honest but trying to confirm the problem. I had reset the code and it was back after restarting the engine with the patched up hose.

                          This sensor only has one inlet, I was expecting it to have two but this might have changed at some point.
                          Could be the sensor or a blocked dpf

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Alex421 View Post
                            Could be the sensor or a blocked dpf
                            Could be either, mine had two small pipes connected. Have you checked one hasn't already been snapped off?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Sorry to barge in a thread the possible reason for the hose splitting and the other hose under the car is because you have too much back pressure in the DPF causing thease hoses to burst ,
                              I know I may joke around a bit and peels don't like it
                              But if I was you I would stop using the car until such time as it can be seen by a mechanic .
                              Another question
                              Have you checked the oil level in the engine?
                              Is it above max ?
                              Dose it smell of diesel ?
                              If the answer is yes then I would strongly suggest not using the car .
                              But I can only advise,
                              Who knows I may be wrong but with hoses splitting it suggests to me the DPF is blocked and there's too much back pressure causing the hoses to split .
                              10-4 rubber gloves.


                              .K.M.P.C.U
                              YEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAAA

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