Just a thought have you had battery on charge or are you presuming once stated its charging, if so how many miles per trip are you doing.?
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Originally posted by Gary-s View PostI did that on all of them, they vary from 620 and 800cca for my car, the one on it is 720 and kwik fit would give an 800
Bosch S4 Car Battery 110 (80Ah) 4 Year Guarantee - £115.19 with discount, though atm funds are tight, mum would have to use her credit card, that's why was saying about the autotec discounted from just over £170, to just under £70 with gsf's halloween discount, it's an 800cca battery
Insignia Elite 16T,Royal Blue non Nav. + added,
Heko Wind Deflectors,Alloy Pedal Covers.Led full Interior,Polished Alloy Door Pins,Osram Diadem Opel Rear indicator Bulbs,Led Reverse Light Upgrade,Gear Surround Red Leds,Led reg plate lights,Nighteye Fog lamp Bulbs,Osram Night Breaker Laser Cornering Bulbs,Rear Sunblinds,Nextbase 522GW front/rear window cam,upgraded front speakers,SS Exhaust,6000k Xenon Bulbs,Thinkdiag Diagnostic Tool
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Originally posted by ilunn View PostI would be checking for any drain on battery after ALL doors closed and locked also watch for interior lights to go off. The way I would do it is multimeter in series with battery, But make sure to start with meter on 10amp range connected correctly and DO NOT operate starter with multimeter is connected.
Originally posted by ilunn View PostJust a thought have you had battery on charge or are you presuming once stated its charging, if so how many miles per trip are you doing.?
As for miles, usually 16 miles each way, so over last couple days.
Sat night/sun morning: 30 miles round trip
sun night/mon morning: 31 miles with a short stop in shop, then it failed
i'm confident in that is it was just to work, then home both days, there'd have been no issues, it's the extra little things using power that seem to drain all it has
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Originally posted by Howy View PostGood price that,found this just for info:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110-110-C...gAAOSwQLVcQbRf
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Just been looking around and using my car details they do vary with manufacturer,is yours the original,ie GM?Insignia Elite 16T,Royal Blue non Nav. + added,
Heko Wind Deflectors,Alloy Pedal Covers.Led full Interior,Polished Alloy Door Pins,Osram Diadem Opel Rear indicator Bulbs,Led Reverse Light Upgrade,Gear Surround Red Leds,Led reg plate lights,Nighteye Fog lamp Bulbs,Osram Night Breaker Laser Cornering Bulbs,Rear Sunblinds,Nextbase 522GW front/rear window cam,upgraded front speakers,SS Exhaust,6000k Xenon Bulbs,Thinkdiag Diagnostic Tool
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Try and do the test suggested by ilunn,as far as you know it's the 'original' battery,at around 4yrs old and been standing,could well be battery fault,if you decide to replace it(as I did before the winter took hold)and before the prices rocket go for the nearest to the original.HTH.Insignia Elite 16T,Royal Blue non Nav. + added,
Heko Wind Deflectors,Alloy Pedal Covers.Led full Interior,Polished Alloy Door Pins,Osram Diadem Opel Rear indicator Bulbs,Led Reverse Light Upgrade,Gear Surround Red Leds,Led reg plate lights,Nighteye Fog lamp Bulbs,Osram Night Breaker Laser Cornering Bulbs,Rear Sunblinds,Nextbase 522GW front/rear window cam,upgraded front speakers,SS Exhaust,6000k Xenon Bulbs,Thinkdiag Diagnostic Tool
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Originally posted by Howy View PostTry and do the test suggested by ilunn,as far as you know it's the 'original' battery,at around 4yrs old and been standing,could well be battery fault,if you decide to replace it(as I did before the winter took hold)and before the prices rocket go for the nearest to the original.HTH.
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Try charging the battery,check all the battery connections and do the multimeter test and go from there,Keep us updated how you get on.Insignia Elite 16T,Royal Blue non Nav. + added,
Heko Wind Deflectors,Alloy Pedal Covers.Led full Interior,Polished Alloy Door Pins,Osram Diadem Opel Rear indicator Bulbs,Led Reverse Light Upgrade,Gear Surround Red Leds,Led reg plate lights,Nighteye Fog lamp Bulbs,Osram Night Breaker Laser Cornering Bulbs,Rear Sunblinds,Nextbase 522GW front/rear window cam,upgraded front speakers,SS Exhaust,6000k Xenon Bulbs,Thinkdiag Diagnostic Tool
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Originally posted by Howy View PostTry charging the battery,check all the battery connections and do the multimeter test and go from there,Keep us updated how you get on.
I was looking at this: https://www.halfords.com/workshop-to...tal-multimeter
how would I set this up to use as i've never actually used a multimeter and don't see a 10a option, on a video for an apparent same model, yet one socket says it's 10a, they don't even use that socket and just use the 20v option to test it, then start the engine to see if voltage drops too low
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Hello Gary. As far as I can see from the posts . It seems to me that the battery is failing ,
A battery has only a limited amount of power to crank the car a certain amount of times , then it drops below its capacity to crank the car over .
Once started the alternator kicks in and recharges the battery .
So in your scenario, you start from cold all fine , you drive a long distance fine you go to,shop come out start and stop a few times then that's where the battery fails .because it's lost it capacity to crank the car .it may well have enough voltage to operate doors and small voltage stuff .
But seeing as you have an automatic as well and it's a large engine to crank and all the electrics to go with it , it requires a good strong battery , and also as the nights are drawing in and it's getting colder you are using lights , blowers. Wipers Putting more strain on what could be an ill battery
Also and it's been said by jumping it and hoping the alternator recharges the battery fully is not what a alternator is for , it's just for topping up the battery from what it may of lost by starting or using.
In the end it's going to weaken the battery and then one day it won't start at all .
Also you say you are jumping it , what are you using to jump it ?
Also I would not recommend jumping thease modern day cars , as sudden voltage spikes can damage electronic components.
I know moneys tight , but if it was me a battery with equivalent or slightly higher CCA .
I'll probably get shouted at by others , but that's my opinion.
.K.M.P.C.U
YEEEEEEEEHAAAAAAAAA
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Originally posted by lizzard-t View PostHello Gary. As far as I can see from the posts . It seems to me that the battery is failing ,
A battery has only a limited amount of power to crank the car a certain amount of times , then it drops below its capacity to crank the car over .
Once started the alternator kicks in and recharges the battery .
So in your scenario, you start from cold all fine , you drive a long distance fine you go to,shop come out start and stop a few times then that's where the battery fails .because it's lost it capacity to crank the car .it may well have enough voltage to operate doors and small voltage stuff .
But seeing as you have an automatic as well and it's a large engine to crank and all the electrics to go with it , it requires a good strong battery , and also as the nights are drawing in and it's getting colder you are using lights , blowers. Wipers Putting more strain on what could be an ill battery
Also and it's been said by jumping it and hoping the alternator recharges the battery fully is not what a alternator is for , it's just for topping up the battery from what it may of lost by starting or using.
In the end it's going to weaken the battery and then one day it won't start at all .
Also you say you are jumping it , what are you using to jump it ?
Also I would not recommend jumping thease modern day cars , as sudden voltage spikes can damage electronic components.
I know moneys tight , but if it was me a battery with equivalent or slightly higher CCA .
I'll probably get shouted at by others , but that's my opinion.
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With batteries I think this way and have for alot of years, as soon as one suspects battery getting week Just fit new as it is likely to cost more in missed appointments/ being late for work or recovery and stress it also brings with it. Unfortuantly you seem to be in catch 22 where there is cost all ways, being cost of battery, cost of charger to hopefully charge over night, or there is 3rd option but that will also cost that is to arrange to have day trip with round trip being 150 mile or so ideally in day light (no lights (heavy consumers ect) this will give plenty of time to get battery to Full charge. How many miles has car done?
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Originally posted by ilunn View PostWith batteries I think this way and have for alot of years, as soon as one suspects battery getting week Just fit new as it is likely to cost more in missed appointments/ being late for work or recovery and stress it also brings with it. Unfortuantly you seem to be in catch 22 where there is cost all ways, being cost of battery, cost of charger to hopefully charge over night, or there is 3rd option but that will also cost that is to arrange to have day trip with round trip being 150 mile or so ideally in day light (no lights (heavy consumers ect) this will give plenty of time to get battery to Full charge. How many miles has car done?
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My battery died a few weeks ago (7 years, original battery). No real warning at all, it was maybe a tad slower one cold morning on cranking but then ok for weeks after and following a 20 mile Mway drive and after sitting for 2 hours, it started perfectly but I stopped the engine for some reason and then it would not turn over the engine. Was dead as a doe-doe. Hazard lights came on, interior lights came on, all the doors locked.
Fortunately I was parked directly outside a car factors, so bought a new battery and has been perfect for over a month now. Funny thing was, no warning and alternator was charging the battery normally (circa 14v).
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