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I. First you will need to get/borrow one of the following read/write tool: Ktag, Kess or Glletto v54. It is used to read/write your file from/to ECU flash memory.
II. Before removing:
1) Regenerate DPF (can do this before write, if not planned for the same time)
2) Clear DTC
3) Unlock the car
4) Ensure the car is in neutral or parking
5) Ensure all electrical equipment in the car are off
6) Remove the key from the car, keep away not to engage unintentionally
7) Disconnect the ground cable from the battery, then disconnect positive
8) Do not lock the car prior ECU disconnection
9) While ECU Is removed do not try or switch on/off any equipment, open/close doors, lock/unlock car
III. Removal
ECU is located next to the battery. Just slide it up. Unlock and disconnect cables. Remove metal cover frame. Remove plastic cover frame.
IV. After removal
1) Pry open EDC (video and pdf guides available online, just google)
2) Reconnect and try to start the car before programing. This is to ensure you did not done mechanical damage to ECU. And to know if it is software or hardware, if problem arise at later stage.
3) Read backup Int Flash Micro (Micro TC1792 (Maps) + EEPROM more than 1 time
4) Modify your file as per your resentments. I will upload guide on this matter latter. Also you can count on mine free tuning service.
5) Write only “Int Flash Micro”, Do not flash EEPROM. At least do not flash the car with EEPROM read where car was start between read and write. If the car was started between the full read and the full write, the IMMO code was changed and it's not in sync anymore.
p.s
The guide I`m doing, or file I will do for you will be better then most tuning money can buy. Be aware most tuning company still using PD style tuning (de-calibrate duration map) for common rail cars (this is why i star with tuning initially).
Now it is quite rear to see de-calibrated 19DTH... It was not like that 4 years ago before releasing EDC16c19 guide (based on lucky hit from real pro tuner).
It is also rear to see proper tuned A20DTH now (I have a lucky hit here too), most tuners still use SWIFTEC to switch of injection monitoring and de-calibrate duration map
II. Before removing:
1) Regenerate DPF (can do this before write, if not planned for the same time)
2) Clear DTC
3) Unlock the car
4) Ensure the car is in neutral or parking
5) Ensure all electrical equipment in the car are off
6) Remove the key from the car, keep away not to engage unintentionally
7) Disconnect the ground cable from the battery, then disconnect positive
8) Do not lock the car prior ECU disconnection
9) While ECU Is removed do not try or switch on/off any equipment, open/close doors, lock/unlock car
III. Removal
ECU is located next to the battery. Just slide it up. Unlock and disconnect cables. Remove metal cover frame. Remove plastic cover frame.
IV. After removal
1) Pry open EDC (video and pdf guides available online, just google)
2) Reconnect and try to start the car before programing. This is to ensure you did not done mechanical damage to ECU. And to know if it is software or hardware, if problem arise at later stage.
3) Read backup Int Flash Micro (Micro TC1792 (Maps) + EEPROM more than 1 time
4) Modify your file as per your resentments. I will upload guide on this matter latter. Also you can count on mine free tuning service.
5) Write only “Int Flash Micro”, Do not flash EEPROM. At least do not flash the car with EEPROM read where car was start between read and write. If the car was started between the full read and the full write, the IMMO code was changed and it's not in sync anymore.
p.s
The guide I`m doing, or file I will do for you will be better then most tuning money can buy. Be aware most tuning company still using PD style tuning (de-calibrate duration map) for common rail cars (this is why i star with tuning initially).
Now it is quite rear to see de-calibrated 19DTH... It was not like that 4 years ago before releasing EDC16c19 guide (based on lucky hit from real pro tuner).
It is also rear to see proper tuned A20DTH now (I have a lucky hit here too), most tuners still use SWIFTEC to switch of injection monitoring and de-calibrate duration map
A little tricky getting the case off but managed it without any damage and tested ECU afterwards to be sure and all good still
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