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track control arm bolt seized

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  • track control arm bolt seized

    I spent about 2 hours trying to free the bolt through the eccentric track control arm, inner bolt, seized solid, had to give up. Nut came free easy but bolt through rubber bush couldn't be freed. I must say its a piece of crap design where you have a regularly 'adjustable' part bonded together with little chance of freeing due different metals, or rubber bush. Any ideas any one, problem was driving bolt through was dampened by rubber bush, I tried clamping opposite ends together but to no avail. Due to change 4 tyres and as always I free up track control arms so that I get proper adjustment and not a stripped bolt head.
    As I see it now it's a new track control arm to get the and geometry right. Geometry is out at the moment and wearing inside edge of rears, not fast enough as they are absolute shite, last time I'll accept a recommendation from a BMW X5 driver, he thought they were great. They are great in that you don't have to change them until they reach 40,000kms, he was obviously driving an X5 because it was an X5 and not because he could afford it but every wet roundabout you look like you're drifting on purpose. There's about 5mm thread on rear but I have to get rid. They're Maxtrack Fortis T5. Great if you live in Sweden I'd say but here, Crap. Dangerous in fact.
    Ahh I'm feeling better now. Rant over, they are dangerous though.

  • #2
    heat is the only way. oxy acetylene.

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    • #3
      Spray some plusgas. Much better than wd40

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      • #4
        Thanks for replys,

        I'll try plusgas, never heard of it, but worth a try.

        Originally posted by p3tchy View Post
        heat is the only way. oxy acetylene.
        Heat wont work as the area I'd need to heat is inner sleeve of rubber bush, though thinking about it if I heat the bolt either end and let it cool again to try to break the 'seal', would this work? Any advice?

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        • #5
          Had another attempt. No joy. Half a can of penetrating oil and a butane torch. Two new bolts on order. Angle grinder with a cutting disc will be coming out. Problem is if I put too much torque on the bolt I'll rip the rubber bush as this is twisting, then I'll need a new control arm too. Can't drive the bolt through, it just won't budge.

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          • #6
            Grinder out, new control arm fitted, only €24, £20, came all the way from USA. Must be cheapest insignia part with two bushes. Took an hour. Copper grease on all internals. Camber and toe set and all good. Offside camber was over double what it should be and wearing tyre inside. Old rubber was in good condition. Apparently rear camber is an issue on older Insignias as bushes settle. Seized bolts common on many multilink suspension set ups as the groove cut into bolt to facilitate the eccentric washer allow water in and thus rust. Though there must be other forces at play e.g. the position as the lower arm adjuster was stiff but released ok with a bit of torque.

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            • #7
              And then a spring went "ping". Bloody hell, you fix one thing and another goes, new springs for the rear. Left a piece behind me on the road, I retrieved it as I was only doing 20mph when it decided to part.

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              • #8
                I should move it to a "my Insignia" form.

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                • #9
                  At least now I have an excuse to grease the camber control arm, lower control arm bolts. FFS. With ongoing brake/guide pin issue I'm not impressed, I not selling though.

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                  • #10
                    You had the whiskey bottle out ?
                    ​2015 Sri vx line nav BiTurbo . Sri heated leather.5500k AFL . Vx line 20s,8inch LCD dash .FLEXride.Reverse cam.Irmscher grill.235hp and 480 torqs.30mm lowering springs.20mm H&R spacers all round. Mtec drilled discs on rear,VXR 355mm drilled on front,with Brembo 4 pot calipers. Auto wipers .VX puddle lights.Carbon effect black roof wrap.Irmscher roof spoiler.Irmscher side skirts.

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