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  • #16
    All going well (without any knocking developing) I plan to change the oil again in 10k kms. I'll see what the oil looks like then. Fingers crossed.

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    • #17
      Looks like you caught it just in time.
      Insignia Elite 16T,Royal Blue non Nav. + added,
      Heko Wind Deflectors,Alloy Pedal Covers.Led full Interior,Polished Alloy Door Pins,Osram Diadem Opel Rear indicator Bulbs,Led Reverse Light Upgrade,Gear Surround Red Leds,Led reg plate lights,Nighteye Fog lamp Bulbs,Osram Night Breaker Laser Cornering Bulbs,Rear Sunblinds,Nextbase 522GW front/rear window cam,upgraded front speakers,SS Exhaust,6000k Xenon Bulbs,Thinkdiag Diagnostic Tool

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      • #18
        Originally posted by buttons View Post
        Did over 350km today. All seems ok. Though I could have spent that money on a cv joint and few other bits and pieces that need doing. Anyway, I could have been looking at a lot worse so I'll not dwell on it though I'm listening to every little noise now.
        Speaking of CV joints,,this is my old one that failed in august,,instead of shiny metal,it's all discoloured through heat damage..I didn't take it off looking like this,I cut off the boot to have a look inside
        ​2015 Sri vx line nav BiTurbo . Sri heated leather.5500k AFL . Vx line 20s,8inch LCD dash .FLEXride.Reverse cam.Irmscher grill.235hp and 480 torqs.30mm lowering springs.20mm H&R spacers all round. Mtec drilled discs on rear,VXR 355mm drilled on front,with Brembo 4 pot calipers. Auto wipers .VX puddle lights.Carbon effect black roof wrap.Irmscher roof spoiler.Irmscher side skirts.

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        • #19
          Did you change the complete shaft or just the joint?
          Insignia Elite 16T,Royal Blue non Nav. + added,
          Heko Wind Deflectors,Alloy Pedal Covers.Led full Interior,Polished Alloy Door Pins,Osram Diadem Opel Rear indicator Bulbs,Led Reverse Light Upgrade,Gear Surround Red Leds,Led reg plate lights,Nighteye Fog lamp Bulbs,Osram Night Breaker Laser Cornering Bulbs,Rear Sunblinds,Nextbase 522GW front/rear window cam,upgraded front speakers,SS Exhaust,6000k Xenon Bulbs,Thinkdiag Diagnostic Tool

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          • #20
            Nasty looking alright.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Howy View Post
              Did you change the complete shaft or just the joint?
              Whole shaft,,about 40mins
              ​2015 Sri vx line nav BiTurbo . Sri heated leather.5500k AFL . Vx line 20s,8inch LCD dash .FLEXride.Reverse cam.Irmscher grill.235hp and 480 torqs.30mm lowering springs.20mm H&R spacers all round. Mtec drilled discs on rear,VXR 355mm drilled on front,with Brembo 4 pot calipers. Auto wipers .VX puddle lights.Carbon effect black roof wrap.Irmscher roof spoiler.Irmscher side skirts.

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              • #22
                Buttons, I hope the problem will stay away!

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by crunch81 View Post
                  Buttons, I hope the problem will stay away!
                  Ive no doubt the seal is fixed, given the difference between the new one and the old. The only question is, was any damage done before the low oil pressure message came up, because obviously it didn't fail in a catastrophic way so there was probably some element of leakage before the first message. How much no one knows. Oil was clean with no 'shinny' traces. What might have gone in my favour is the use of high quality 0W30 oil, that little bit of lower viscosity may have signaled the oil pressure warning that bit earlier? BTW that oil is specified in my manual for the biturbo so I use it, newer models say 5W30. I'm keeping fingers crossed cause I love the car. I have photo Ill get up. Thanks

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                  • #24
                    That should be 0W40. oops.

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                    • #25
                      https://www.flickr.com/photos/157128...posted-public/
                      Compare this old seal to Peckys new one fitted.

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                      • #26
                        Just wondering, with the drilling and grinding was that enough to get the sump off or was the gear box still split aswell, wasn't a local garage that done tge work?

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                        • #27
                          Originally posted by buttons View Post
                          Compared to the new seal on peckys photo, mine old one is quite flattened. With the lip pointing to the floor on peckys horizontal on mine.
                          The photo is the new one fitted, the old one was pretty flat and hard.

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Somtrot View Post
                            Just wondering, with the drilling and grinding was that enough to get the sump off or was the gear box still split aswell, wasn't a local garage that done tge work?
                            My gearbox wasn't split at all, just the drilling & grinding

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by pecky View Post
                              My gearbox wasn't split at all, just the drilling & grinding
                              Excellent, have two to do, not a good run of look with them, faulty injector....head gasket went , didn't over heat just ran horrible and cut out, no compression in cylinder 1 and 2, low oil pressure light came on too, the warning came on once in the past but went straight out and never returned, I have most of it stripped just waiting on a timing tool to be delivered to take the belt off and remove the fuel pump to take the head off, 3 days later cold spell started and the wife's car low oil pressure light came on in the morning on start up, it ran fine but the following morning came on again, car is parked since, would you get away with not removing the driveshaft or is it a nonrunner
                              with it left in place, cheers for the info

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                              • #30
                                Originally posted by pecky View Post
                                My gearbox wasn't split at all, just the drilling & grinding
                                Is yours the m32 gearbox as I've had the warning light twice in the last week. I had the cam belt done last week and don't fancy another large bill (2 gearbox refurbs, new dmf and clutch done over the last 2 years). I've read somewhere that the m32 gearbox doesn't need splitting as the bolts can be accessed without doing it???
                                Last edited by Jesterjim80; 01-12-2017, 07:27 AM. Reason: Autocorrect changed dmf to end

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