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  • #31
    The gearbox on mine was split from block 1", just enough to get to the 2 bolts. Not removed entirely. Drive shafts left in place.

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    • #32
      M32 box is only on the 130 cars as far as I know, I'm hoping to go at taking the sump off tomorrow, exhaust bolts in the mid section will need grinding off for me, soaked them wd40 but there not going to give, mine has the m32 box the housing sits flush with the sump, if it is the case of drilling and grinding it will be a disaster there's no sign of where the bolts are, i was hoping tgere would be a lip or some sort of of shape in the gearbox housing to work off where to drill and grind, if it is the case the m32 are not hidden looks like front exhaust off and i should get away with leaving the driveshaft in place and working around it

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      • #33
        Mine is the 130. I was just trying to find out prior to getting the job done as I don't want to be ripped off by someone trying to charge "extra" hours if the gearbox doesn't need removing. I could do it myself but Don't fancy doing it off axle stands and I'm not confident enough to take drive shafts out.

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        • #34
          I have the 160 with auto box, do you know if I would have to remove gear box to get to bolts or not.

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          • #35
            I was told all 130 were the m32.....i can confirm 100% its not the case from my couple of hours yesterday ,mine has the f40, the drive shaft is a pain if left in, the bracket holding the intermediate shaft has to be undone either way to gain access to 2 of the bolts holding the sump in place, I've just the 2left on the fly wheel end to get out , 5mm is all your looking for you can see half the head of the bolt, had a look in the Haynes manual last night and its saying if you rotate the crankshaft their is two gaps in the fly wheel that gives you access to them, the drilling and grinding if that fails, don't get how that gives you the access because that opens up a space under the fly wheel and on the left hand side of it, the bolts are on the right, might but a bit of a bend into a torx Allen key and see will that work , I'm.doing it off axle stands once your in a garden off the road its grand defiantly do able....I've no idea about the autobox , there is a tread on this somewhere that a chap done one on an autobox

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            • #36
              You can get to the two screws on the gearbox side by turn the crankshaft, theirs is a groove in the side of fly wheel its just a matter of turning and getting back under the car each time to match the groove up with the bolt, use a t40 and it fits up perfect and gives you a little bit of room, its a t45 bolt but the shaft of my bit was to thick, no need to split the gearbox or drill, mine is the f40box, drive shaft was left in place , 3bolts holding it too the sump undone, ones a pig other two fine, all in all a bit fiddly but defiantly do able at home on stands, if you do a few jobs on your car and have the small amount of equipment needed even without the low oil message think its well worth doing for preventable maintenance

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              • #37
                That's my plan, I'm on around 70k I think.
                So do it now and again at 100k if I have too.

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                • #38
                  when you did youre seal after you grinded did you need a long reach torx or was a normal one ok to fit in the gap ?
                  ive ordered the seal and should be there to pick up sat from dealer im bit daunted tbh but gonna tackle it
                  and is it advisable to change the crank shell bearings ?

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                  • #39
                    I've done the two of mine, both f40 gearbox, no need to drill or grind or split the box, if you rotate the crankshaft and shine a torch up you'll see a gap in the wall of the fly wheel, it's a bit tricky finding it, there's two about 40mm wide, but once you locate it a standard t40 Allen key does the job but if you had a long one it would make life alot easier, I took the drive shaft out on the second one, its a hell of alot easier with it out and quicker over all, id defiantly recommend taking it out, its not that bad a job to be honest it sounds like more of a pain than it is and definitely easier than a new engine ��

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                    • #40
                      Sorry guys, brain block here, what gear box have I got, 12plate 160 auto.

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                      • #41
                        So garage has mine, strainer not blocked, seal past it, metal in sump, but car wasn't too noisy when bringing into workshop. Fingers crossed it is only the big end bearing shells gone...

                        EDIT: Engine knackered. Bearings shot.... Rebuild time....

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                        • #42
                          just done mine and i was lucky no metal in the sump seal was hard as hell and split
                          no more warning message on cold starts

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                          • #43
                            Originally posted by MJSROOFING View Post
                            Sorry guys, brain block here, what gear box have I got, 12plate 160 auto.
                            The auto gearbox is called AF40 by Vauxhall, a.k.a. AWTF-80 SC (manufacturer name)

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                            • #44
                              Just had the low pressure warning come up on mine on start up today. Switched it off then on again and the warning had gone. I haven’t used the car for 6 days and it is freezing cold out to so wonder if its to do with this fact that or if it is the seal going.

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                              • #45
                                Is there a way to check the seal easily, in order to find out if I should get mine done?

                                I’ve just bought a 2012 cdti with 51k miles in the clock.

                                Quite nervous of getting this issue and killing the engine!!

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