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Oil pressure switch location 2.0 cdti ecoflex

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  • Oil pressure switch location 2.0 cdti ecoflex

    I've got the dreaded oil pressure low fault and wanted to change the switch as a matter of course but I can't find the damn thing.

    Please help.......

  • #2
    The pressure switch is screwed into the oil filter/cooler housing. But my advice, and I went through this a few weeks ago, is park it up and get the sump off and the pick up seal changed. If after that you still have a low pressure warning change the switch. Driving the car with a bad pick up seal will wreck the engine. What miles you on? Mine went on 144k miles.

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    • #3
      I've only had the fault come on twice in the last 2 weeks (when it's been cold in the morning), I've switched the engine off immediately when the fault occurs and I've got no noise coming from the engine when it happens. I've seen the instructions on another thread regarding the pick up seal and I don't fancy taking the drive shafts out or taking the gearbox off to do it. Looks like an expensive bill at a garage just before Xmas unless it can be done without the drive shaft and gearbox being removed?

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      • #4
        Originally posted by buttons View Post
        The pressure switch is screwed into the oil filter/cooler housing. But my advice, and I went through this a few weeks ago, is park it up and get the sump off and the pick up seal changed. If after that you still have a low pressure warning change the switch. Driving the car with a bad pick up seal will wreck the engine. What miles you on? Mine went on 144k miles.
        Mines on 89k miles. New dmf clutch and second gearbox (m32 box made of chocolate) 12 months ago exactly....cam belt replaced 2 weeks ago so I was hoping for no more "big jobs". Did you remove the drive shaft and gearbox to get your sump off?

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        • #5
          I thought long and hard about it as I do all (most) work on my car, incl all servicing and most other bits but I decided to get garage to do it as my fear was that I'd get so far and have 90% of the work done and have a stripped head or rusted bolt or something. If I had time to plan ahead I probably would have taken it on. Cost in Euros was €400, the part was €15. This was at main dealer. The peace of mind in that is a 2 year warranty on the replacement part. As I didnt do the work myself I'm not 100% sure but I know my way around a car. The drive shaft intermediate bearing is bolted to the sump so it has to come off (only the housing). If the bottom ball joint and track rod end is split from the wheel bearing hub and possibly the roll bar link rod then there should be enough play to allow the other work. There are 2 screws caught by the flange of the bell housing, Mr Haynes reckons these can be got at by turning the flywheel, I'm not sure as my main dealer couldnt do it (it may be applicable to some models) so they had to ease the gearbox off by an inch to get to the bolts. The play in the drive shafts will allow this. But there is work required in mounts and supports etc to allow the gearbox gap. Getting the sump off and seal changed is easy once you got this far. Not for the faint hearted.
          I could not make a call on the DMF and clutch as I didnt know if the engine was wrecked. I now wish I had changed all as the DMF is vibrating. And I have sprung a leak, either the existing small leak in rad has got worse or waterpump leaking. I'll find out this weekend. Very long winded.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Jesterjim80 View Post
            I've only had the fault come on twice in the last 2 weeks (when it's been cold in the morning), I've switched the engine off immediately when the fault occurs and I've got no noise coming from the engine when it happens. I've seen the instructions on another thread regarding the pick up seal and I don't fancy taking the drive shafts out or taking the gearbox off to do it. Looks like an expensive bill at a garage just before Xmas unless it can be done without the drive shaft and gearbox being removed?
            The problem is if you drive the car after you get this warning, even after it goes out after a second or you switch the engine off and back on again without getting the message, the seal is letting air into the oil pump, this will starve the bearings and lead to major repairs. As far as I understand it the air being 'sucked in' from the oil pump (the pick up pipe is a suction pipe) is emulsified by the mechanical action of the oil pump into a 'cream' which fools the oil pressure sensor to think there is sufficient pressure. The bearings are not so fooled and fail being supplied with this air/oil 'cream'. So even if it appears for a split second get it fixed asap, otherwise the engine will seize without warning - even though there was one. In your case it should be one last big job as you have done the rest.

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            • #7
              I still have my fingers crossed that mine is OK. So far so good. Alot of other unrelated problems though.

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              • #8
                Oil pick seal is an expensive job. But a new engine or turbo is even more expensive. Play it safe and get it done asap. If you go to an indy garage will cost you alot less. Even come northampton and my mate will do the work in a day for about 200

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Jesterjim80 View Post
                  Mines on 89k miles. New dmf clutch and second gearbox (m32 box made of chocolate) 12 months ago exactly....cam belt replaced 2 weeks ago so I was hoping for no more "big jobs". Did you remove the drive shaft and gearbox to get your sump off?
                  im now in the process of replacing the pickup seal

                  my car has the f40 gearbox theres 2 cutouts already in the gearbox to get to the 2 bolts hidden under the gearbox flange but i had to buy a 150mm magnetic extra long reach t40 torx socket to get to them
                  have to rotate the engine so as to get the grove in dmf to line up with the cutout and again for the second bolt

                  driveshaft off and the front exhaust downpipe


                  i didnt split the bottom balljoint instead i took the 2 bolts out the suspension leg 18mm socket and the flexi brake pipe out of the holder on the leg let assy drop forward
                  theres 3 13 mm bolts you have to take off on the driveshaft bearing bracket to release driveshaft driveshaft and bearing bracket on sump plugging the inner shaft hole as oil comes out used a scupper plug off my kayak, when driveshaft out i pushed hub assy back and slid one of bolts back to hold it
                  disconnect a wiring plug on rear of sump and a breather pipe on a 10mm bolt
                  the bolts holding the sump are torx take off with a male torx socket
                  gently lever and wiggle the sump off
                  i took the offending seal out the rubber was hard as hell and slightly warped think i caught this just in time
                  car now sits up on blocks im waiting for the new seal and exhaust gaskets to come mon and will just put it all back together and torque up

                  my biggest problem was the cold as im doing this on my patio at the back of the house

                  its not such a big job just a lot of fiddling about

                  i read through a lot of threads and on some it says you can drill and grind cutouts if there not present on the gearbox
                  its only the 2 bolts hidden under the gearbox flange that make this a hard job

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                  • #10
                    After 101k pretty faultless miles my 2011/11 8v has shown this warning for the past three cold starts, I switch it off straight away and then start again and the warning's gone out but looking at the above with aerated oil around the bearings it isn't going to last long.

                    Is it worth keeping or trading in? what's the typical oil pickup seal replacement cost from a main dealer or independent? - have both in town and I'll call them tomorrow, just wanted a heads up and that'll make me decide whether it's worth keeping.

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                    • #11
                      Had a quote from my local greenhous vauxhall garager of £387.27 to replace the seal (4.5 hour to do it) and an extra £81.53 to replace the oil and filter.....thats including a 25% discount........thats just ridiculous....how do they sleep at night????

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                      • #12
                        Further update.....£198.45 from a local indy and they "recommend" an oil and filter change at the same time for £85 (i did one a month ago total cost £30)......

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                        • #13
                          Local independent Vauxhall Repair Centre in Ilkeston, Derbyshire 0115 9441077 sorted mine yesterday, around 4.5hrs of labour plus oil and filter.
                          The seal, part no. 55589549, was £15.84 but the local Vauxhall dealer didn't have one in stock (7-10 days from Germany) fortunately Pentagon Nottingham had one.

                          There were no metal particles in the sump (they strained the oil), none in the strainer or sludge build up.
                          Strangely, as an independent Vauxhall specialist, they hadn't heard of the oil pick up seal failing, local Vauxhall dealer had only changed one.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by Insigniagh! View Post
                            Local independent Vauxhall Repair Centre in Ilkeston, Derbyshire 0115 9441077 sorted mine yesterday, around 4.5hrs of labour plus oil and filter.
                            The seal, part no. 55589549, was £15.84 but the local Vauxhall dealer didn't have one in stock (7-10 days from Germany) fortunately Pentagon Nottingham had one.

                            There were no metal particles in the sump (they strained the oil), none in the strainer or sludge build up.
                            Strangely, as an independent Vauxhall specialist, they hadn't heard of the oil pick up seal failing, local Vauxhall dealer had only changed one.
                            Mine was done Friday, didnt get my car back until saturday lunch time as the garage underestimated the job as 2 hours labour. Ill be doing the oil and filter change myself as it was only done a month ago (£85 to change a filter and use new oil instead of old was a p#ss take as they had to drain the oil to do the job). Total price was £202 as they had to add 1/2 litre of oil after doing the job. Well worth it for me rather than risking the seal getting worse and failing completely. i doubt the garage will do another one for the same price.
                            I had the old seal off them and it still had flex in it and hadnt gone solid but the car seams to be running smoother now its been changed...only time will tell......

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                            • #15
                              Its in the oil cooler housing above the pipes if I remember correctly. I srarched for an oil cooler on ebay and there was one on there with the switch in on the picture........

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