egr cooler repair help

[Tiggerz_SRi]

That’s the one! Mine got done at Vauxhall’s at the dealers expense with the duff and sensor

[welshhuw]

That’s the one! Mine got done at Vauxhall’s at the dealers expense with the duff and sensor

Duff and sensor?!
Garage expense too

[Tiggerz_SRi]

That’s it! Srs error within three miles abd egr cooler triggered low coolant in under 200 miles. He could not have road tested it as he claimed he did!

[welshhuw]

All fixed here. Garage warranty.

[Slowmo]

I did this job at the weekend, took about 2 hours. I didn't have a visible external leak but having had the head gasket tested, oil cooler and water pump relaced last year it seemed the easiest cheapest thing to try. I found the internal gasket had a crack between a coolant channel and the exhaust gases.

I also ran some Wynns EGR cleaner through the system. Done 600 miles since the change and coolant seems to be stable and my MPG went from a woeful 41 up to 48. I expect it to drop a little more but I highly recommend giving the stuff a go if your economy has dropped. When I first got the car i could get around 45 so the downward trend in mpg happened over a year. My daily drive is 2 30 minute journeys on a roads at around 50 MPH so I wouldn't expect it to be too taxing on the DPF.

[Bertybouy]

Egr cooler replacement,

Did you remove the bottom engine tray?, was all the work done from the top via engine bay?. Please

Mick H, on 07 March 2015 - 09:43 AM, said:
Vauxhall Insignia 2011. SRI??CDTI??2.0lt.??Part number of EGR cooler plastic body 55590953.??Number on component part 0705592. (Available on Ebay for ?25 up) A20DTH Engine.hi mick,did halfrauds actually say ?1200?!!if so I would have gone back and had a go,bloody outrageous.ps I am in lydd.sandy



Tools: Snips, 1/4" drive socket set with torx heads, and 10mm socket, ratchet, extensions. large flat blade screwdriver, torches/work lights. long nose pliers, elec screwdriver, 10mm combo spanner.



Materials: New EGR cooler body, new gaskets x 2, instant gasket or such like, coolant, 4.5mm wide x 150mm cable ties x 6, rags, wire brush, carb cleaner aerosol, latex gloves x 2 pairs, drip tray, pouring jug, 1m cord, and useful to have assistant to hold light!



The car was very sluggish and was losing coolant. Only the last quarter of the accelerator pedal had any real effect when driving.??Took it to Halfords in Folkestone who quoted ?1200 to repair.

Did some investigating on Ebay and got one for ?25.00 plus postage.



I couldn't find a great deal of info on how to go about this, so apologies if this is wrong, however, it works and the car is now fit, after 3 hours works.??So here goes.



The EGR Cooler body is situated just below and slightly to the right of the yellow dipstick holder shown in the picture below.







The first thing is to ensure there is plenty of light! Also place a large drip tray under the car, the under tray will get in the way here, so be quick when coolant gushes out.



There are a number of pipes and electrical cables which need to be moved and tied out of the way.??The turbo inlet hose simply unclips and can be moved to the side.??The dipstick bolts to the front of the Cooler housing and even when the bolt is removed, the tab obscures the Torx 20 head screw of the cooler body.??All the electrical connectors have a locking mechanism which is coloured tab which need lifting/sliding before the connector can be removed.??Don't be too harsh here as they can easily snap. Clip the cable ties holding the cables in place. There are also a number of small hoses connected to the Cooler body.??Make a note on a scrap piece of paper to relocate on assembly.







Note the red cable tab which needs lifting before the black lug can be squeezed and the connector lifted. Note also the plate which holds the cable connectors.??This is held to the Cooler body with 3 x self tappers and a small torx fits. There is a small cyindrical device which is held by the back two of the self tappers, don't forget to replace on reassembly!









The above picture shows the cable mount plate removed. Also it is easier to remove the exhaust upper heat shield, dipstick and I found it usefull to remove the bolt holding the turbo plastic tube and the two bolts holding the main cable assembly on top of the engine (Not necessary). The cables etc are tied back here to give access.??The 5 torx 20 dome headed M6 bolts that hold the Cooler body to the EGR valve assembly can now be removed, and boy is this fun! Have a look at the new cooler body as you grope around for the dome heads.??In the above picture you can just see the top left screw hidden behind the dipstick tube tab.??The dipstick can be gently prised to the left and you can just get on the screw head.







The screw in the centre of the Cooler body is playful to get on being about 4 inches in.



Once all 5 screw have been removed the Cooler body and cooler inside is ready to drop off.??When this happens, there will be a rush of coolant, so be careful no connectors are nearby to get wet!??Pull gently and the body comes off, hold a finger over the end to prevent the cooler inside falling out, this is very expensive to replace.



Once the coolant has finished, remove the rubber gasket and throw away. Split the cooler from the old body and clean up the faces of the cooler with some carb spray and gentle use of a wire brush. Put to one side whilst cleaning the EGR valve body.??Once EGR valve body (attached to engine) is wiped out with a rag spray carb cleaner, get in as close as possible and if necessary use the wire brush to clean any debris, this is highly important to have ultraclean faces here.



It is a good idea to take the centre rubber bung off the old cooler body and fit to the new one, there are 3 small capillary type tubes sticking out, its the centre one of these thats capped. Might be worth putting the long rubber tube on the single tube on the opposite side also, but it can be done in situ.



Reassembly is relatively straight forward. I personally, use a little instant gasket to coat the rubber gaskets with before placing in the grooves on both the new EGR cooler body, and the EGR valve face, just to ensure they don't leak.??Vauxhall will probably say don't put anything on the surfaces, not sure here, so might be worth checking?



Put the cleaned and dry cooler inside the cooler body and there are two lugs that line up, carefully get it in line and have a couple of bolts ready, these locating lugs also line up on the EGR valve body, so makes sure it is fairly well lined up. Double check there are no cables likely to get trapped and push the cooler assembly home.?? Whilst pushing get a couple of bolts in, again, the one behind the dipstick is a pain and needs to be fairly well wound in by fingers before the torx head will go on.??I found it usefull to get the deep centre bolt in at this stage to crank it in square. Gently ease each bolt in loosly at first the tighten opposites bit by bit, also the centre bolt, until all 5 are tightish.??DO NOT over tighten or you will break the plastic. Fill up with coolant and check for leaks at this stage as you don't want the hassle of unclipping connectors ever again!



Put the rubber tubes on the body before placing the cable tray on, connect the dipstick bolt, then its just a case of reassembling everything. One tip, when putting new cable ties on, there are a couple of places where vauxhall use a special type of cable tie.??If you drag the cut off part through the clip, you can slide a new cable tie through the existing clip, works ok.



Just warm up engine, and top up coolant as necessary, check for leaks, and job done, pat yourself on the back, tea and medals at 5pm!

[Arroas]

Forgive my English, I use the translator.
Does anyone have the document with the pictures?

[Xospherix]

Hi,

I've just found out mines doing this. Had a plume of steam behind the car and the bonnet. opened it up and found the egr coolr leaking from the black plastic. I've just ordered one online and thought id have ago at removing it today.

I've remove the battery and ECU so I can get my fat finger inside the car. Disconnected the pipe from the intercooler but im having a real problem trying to take off the plugs ontop of the cooler.
There's a black one with red on that has a little flap on the side that can be lifted out but I cant pull off the plug. I dont want to pull too much in case i damage it. Anyone had problems removing these?

Cheers

Ian

[Dave1419]

Ian---- You might be better if you start your own thread with the problem you have---this one starts a few years ago -----Dave

[Xospherix]

Nice 1 will do thought it was an old thread but thought I'd give it a go. I create a new post now mate. Thanks