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  • Oil seal

    Keep seeing people say about a dreaded oil seal of some sort which causes all sorts of problems for the 2 litre cdti engine.

    Can someone give any more info on what it's all about

    I recently bought a 2011 SRI insignia with 115k miles on the clock, should I get the oil seal done or should I wait for any warnings first or what?


    Also any other things to be wary of with this car at this mileage?

    Cheers

  • #2
    oil seal between pump and pick up pipe,in sump
    ​2015 Sri vx line nav BiTurbo . Sri heated leather.5500k AFL . Vx line 20s,8inch LCD dash .FLEXride.Reverse cam.Irmscher grill.235hp and 480 torqs.30mm lowering springs.20mm H&R spacers all round. Mtec drilled discs on rear,VXR 355mm drilled on front,with Brembo 4 pot calipers. Auto wipers .VX puddle lights.Carbon effect black roof wrap.Irmscher roof spoiler.Irmscher side skirts.

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    • #3
      For peace of mind, I think I would get the oil seal replaced. Think you only get one warning of stop the engine now, and that is when there is no oil being pumped around the engine.
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      • #4
        Originally posted by Witty View Post
        For peace of mind, I think I would get the oil seal replaced. Think you only get one warning of stop the engine now, and that is when there is no oil being pumped around the engine.
        Thanks mate.
        Is it a big job to do? Or just a sump off job

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Witty View Post
          For peace of mind, I think I would get the oil seal replaced. Think you only get one warning of stop the engine now, and that is when there is no oil being pumped around the engine.
          Mine always comes on on a cold morning and after I haven’t used it for 3+ days. When the warning comes on i turn the engine off and on again and it clears. Did it last winter to. Will be doing it this year for sure

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          • #6
            Originally posted by bretthudson41 View Post
            Thanks mate.
            Is it a big job to do? Or just a sump off job
            It’s just a sump off job, but some ***hole designed the gearbox so that it covers two bolts. So you have to drill holes in the gearbox or remove it.

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            • #7
              Edit: Double

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              • #8
                Hi Brett, I'm just doing the same job and find no cut outs so will have to drill a couple of holes to get a torch key up there. If you have done this any clues on where to drilling.ie measurements? Cheers

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                • #9
                  I paid over a grand to have the job done. New clutch, flywheel and gearbox flush.

                  My car has done near 120k now. I will say the place that did the job didn’t do that great a job.

                  Good luck though [emoji4].

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                  • #10
                    Job done, total cost £30!

                    Originally posted by Mcbane14 View Post
                    I paid over a grand to have the job done. New clutch, flywheel and gearbox flush.

                    My car has done near 120k now. I will say the place that did the job didn’t do that great a job.

                    Good luck though [emoji4].
                    Did the job myself in a day and a half for total cost of £30 including seal, oil and filter change. I'm lucky enough to have a two post lift in my man cave so access was easy compared with doing it on axle stands. In the end I had to drill a couple if holes in the bell housing to get to the two bolts hidden away. It wasn't that hard, just drill to the side of the reinforcing where the bolts go into the sump. I started with a 6mm drill then 8mm to get the torx driver in. This allowed me to undo the bolts (but not withdraw them fully). Once the sump is removed they drop in the floor then before refitting I filed the holes to make them big enough for the bolts to pass through. See attached photo. Hope this helps, the job itself is not that complicated just time consuming. There's a good video posted by Troy which goes through step-by-step. Click image for larger version

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by slaughk2 View Post
                      Did the job myself in a day and a half for total cost of £30 including seal, oil and filter change. I'm lucky enough to have a two post lift in my man cave so access was easy compared with doing it on axle stands. In the end I had to drill a couple if holes in the bell housing to get to the two bolts hidden away. It wasn't that hard, just drill to the side of the reinforcing where the bolts go into the sump. I started with a 6mm drill then 8mm to get the torx driver in. This allowed me to undo the bolts (but not withdraw them fully). Once the sump is removed they drop in the floor then before refitting I filed the holes to make them big enough for the bolts to pass through. See attached photo. Hope this helps, the job itself is not that complicated just time consuming. There's a good video posted by Troy which goes through step-by-step. [ATTACH=CONFIG]1374[/ATTACH]
                      I can’t help but wonder if this is why the bottom of my car is covered in oil! I had this job done in December and perhaps something wasn’t fitted correctly as it’s now leaking oil.

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