Power loss

[nickyhud]

Hi, I have a 2014 insignia VX line. For a few weeks now I've noticed a temporary loss of power, just a few moments then it picks up again. I also realised at that time it had been about 8 months since my last "cleaning exhaust filter, must continue to drive" message, this came up today, kept dropping off screen, and every time it dropped off the power dropped also.. then regained again. Drove for 40 minutes to this message dropping and popping up several times, gave up and came home for wine. Was worried my turbo was dying with loss of power but thinking now that's not it, hopefully... any suggestions? Thanks in advance

[RBH]

hi and weclome

we always like when new members join our forum.
would you care to visit this section of the forum...………….

https://insignia-drivers.uk/forums/3...-Introductions

and introduce yourself properly to everyone.

Tell us a bit about yourself and maybe share a pic or 2 of your car.

Thanks...………...much appreciated.

[RBH]

Moved to correct section.

[nickyhud]

Thanks, appreciate the welcome :-)

[Drew]

Sounds like your diesel particulate filter is near full and needs to regenerate.

[MattG]

Sounds like not first time either. Continue driving is like the last chance saloon, it has to regen or expect serious issues.
This message only pops up of the routine regens have failed.

[nickyhud]

It popped up first month I got her, then again about 6 months later, then nothing till noq, probably a year since last time. But wont go away. On the wine now bur may go a long drive tomorrow, on the open road tonight for 45 mins but bem losing power momentarily coming out of corners for a few weeks now

[lizzard-t]

Hello nickyhud.
Ok this is probably going to sound a bit confusing
But first off do this
Check oil level on dip stick from cold , if higher than maximum and a slight smell of diesel then change oil and filter toot sweet .
( regular oil and filter changes are a must with thease and any diesel car )
Clean MAF and map with electrical contact cleaner.
MAF spray the cleaner through the gauze
Map spray cleaner on the sensor probe and clean sensor with a cotton wall bud ( don't prod or poke it )!
If you have a good quality code reader, then check for any historical or pending or present codes write them down .
Clear codes .and take for a run
Keep revs above 1500 rpm ( lower gears )
And find a straight road ( dual carriageway)
How long you drive it for to try and passively regenerate the DPF depends on the level of saturation .
Anything above 80 % saturation is going to take time .
I've known some have to drive for an hour and a half .
Have you been using it a lot during lock down ?
Do you do a lot of short trips ( i.e. Stop start ?)
As with the design and the way the DPF works
The DPF collects soot which is a by product of the combustion process
And stores it ,
There's a sensor called a differential pressure sensor
Which measures the pressure difference across the DPF
Should be about 0.5 bar drop across the sensor
(1.0 bar inlet 0.5 outlet )
When inlet pressure rises ( i.e. Back pressure)
And outlet pressure decreases to a pre determined level set by the ECU
The Differential pressure sensor will send a signal to the ECU to perform a regen
It advances the timing and starts injecting more diesel , thus raising the exhaust temperature
The above conditions will only perform a regen if certain conditions are met
1) engine temperature above 65 degrees Celsius
2) engine revolution above 750 rpm
3) air flow measured by map and MAF
Then it will perform a regen ( incineration)
This in therory should be a seamless process ( you won't feel much difference)
Apart from increased MPG
And your distance to empty going down and a possible acrid smell .
If interrupted then any unburnt diesel is washed back down through the cylinder walls into the sump
Too many regens interrupted then oil level rises above max .
Too much oil in sump can find its way through the intake side through pressure and cause
A condition called diesel run away ( engine will feed on the extra oil and burn and raise revs to 6000 +++
Till such time as it has no more oil to feed or burn.by that time the engine is toast .
Your car can sometimes regenerate at idle whitest parked !
Sorry for the long winded essay
And there will probably be peeps telling me to blow it out my exhaust.
Hay ho !i just smile and carry on, and keep my thaught to my self .
Do simples first .
10-4 rubber duck!

[RBH]

Hello nickyhud.
Ok this is probably going to sound a bit confusing
But first off do this
Check oil level on dip stick from cold , if higher than maximum and a slight smell of diesel then change oil and filter toot sweet .
( regular oil and filter changes are a must with thease and any diesel car )
Clean MAF and map with electrical contact cleaner.
MAF spray the cleaner through the gauze
Map spray cleaner on the sensor probe and clean sensor with a cotton wall bud ( don't prod or poke it )!
If you have a good quality code reader, then check for any historical or pending or present codes write them down .
Clear codes .and take for a run
Keep revs above 1500 rpm ( lower gears )
And find a straight road ( dual carriageway)
How long you drive it for to try and passively regenerate the DPF depends on the level of saturation .
Anything above 80 % saturation is going to take time .
I've known some have to drive for an hour and a half .
Have you been using it a lot during lock down ?
Do you do a lot of short trips ( i.e. Stop start ?)
As with the design and the way the DPF works
The DPF collects soot which is a by product of the combustion process
And stores it ,
There's a sensor called a differential pressure sensor
Which measures the pressure difference across the DPF
Should be about 0.5 bar drop across the sensor
(1.0 bar inlet 0.5 outlet )
When inlet pressure rises ( i.e. Back pressure)
And outlet pressure decreases to a pre determined level set by the ECU
The Differential pressure sensor will send a signal to the ECU to perform a regen
It advances the timing and starts injecting more diesel , thus raising the exhaust temperature
The above conditions will only perform a regen if certain conditions are met
1) engine temperature above 65 degrees Celsius
2) engine revolution above 750 rpm
3) air flow measured by map and MAF
Then it will perform a regen ( incineration)
This in therory should be a seamless process ( you won't feel much difference)
Apart from increased MPG
And your distance to empty going down and a possible acrid smell .
If interrupted then any unburnt diesel is washed back down through the cylinder walls into the sump
Too many regens interrupted then oil level rises above max .
Too much oil in sump can find its way through the intake side through pressure and cause
A condition called diesel run away ( engine will feed on the extra oil and burn and raise revs to 6000 +++
Till such time as it has no more oil to feed or burn.by that time the engine is toast .
Your car can sometimes regenerate at idle whitest parked !
Sorry for the long winded essay
And there will probably be peeps telling me to blow it out my exhaust.
Hay ho !i just smile and carry on, and keep my thaught to my self .
Do simples first .
10-4 rubber duck!

Cracking write up mate.
Well done and thanks.
I'm sure this will help the OP

[nickyhud]

Wow, thanks appreciate this, going for a long spin today. Will update later. Thank you!

[nickyhud]

Mystery solved... had a split pipe!! Air escaping when I'm accelerating then gets too much and completely opens hence the "power loss" very easy fix back to full power... sweet as a nut! Thanks for all suggestions, can now enjoy this wee forum with nothing to worry about �� ��