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sat removed from my 63 plate ready to fit rear camera

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  • #31
    cmor or jem was there a particular slot you used in the fuse box or was it just use any free one? camera is installed and the interface will be done by the weekend. any tips on getting the trim off and stereo?

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    • #32
      Fuse number 6 is the one I used, it's for the front power socket. You'll need to add an extra fuse to the piggy back holder if you want both to work.



      The only things I removed were the glove box and the touchscreen. The screen housing just unclips from the dashboard, takes a bit of work first time but it will come out. I didn't remove anything else.

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      • #33
        cmor did you take the trim off around the screen housing??

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        • #34
          I removed the plastic housing that holds the touchscreen, air vents and top buttons. Just unclips, start at the top and work your way round. Then disconnect the screen cables to give you enough room to route the cables for the interface to the screen.

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          • #35
            cool ok i fitted a towbar the weekend so i ran the cable for the camera with the cables for the towbar through the trim on the passenger side and currently have them sat by the glove box ready. i would presume the black cable from the camera is earth and the red on is for the reverse lights? and the yellow one is to plug into the xlink interface?

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            • #36
              Nearly, the black is earth but the red goes back to the interface. The unit has it's own power output for the camera.



              So, one cable connected into the reverse cable goes from the rear to the interface at the front, the another cable from the positive camera output on the interface goes back to the red cabe on the camera. Plus you camera video cable goes from the rear to the interface at the front.

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              • #37
                last silly question did you disconnect the battery before hand and there is no code needed when refitting the screen?

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                • #38
                  No I left the battery connected and was careful. No code needed for the screen at all.

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                  • #39
                    .... oh and leave your positive power connection to the interface until last - do all the other wiring first. That way you have less chance of damaging anything.

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                    • #40
                      thanks very much for the advice its so duntiting doing things like this with all the technology thats in the car these days always worried im gona fry something and end up costing me a small furtune

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                      • #41
                        You'll be fine, just check everything carefully before connecting the positive feed at the fuse box. The worst you can do really is blow the supply fuse. Excluding the video cables, the interface only has: 12v power feed from fuse, earth connection, feed from reverse light and the 12v feed from interface to the camera.

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                        • #42
                          Right here is the kit lots more wires then I thought

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                          • #43
                            do all these wires get used up cmor?

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                            • #44
                              No hardly any of them.??The small loom top left doesn't get used at all and only a few wires from the main loom get used.



                              Just remembered that I also bought an extension cable for the display screen video cables (top right in your photo).

                              This is the one I got: http://www.ebay.co.u...=item3cf0f125bc??It allowed me to move the interface further away to a better position.

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                              • #45
                                Give me the names on the silver tags of the main loom and I'll tell you where to connect them.

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