Clutch

[DeaniFLHT]

Certainly worth getting it all checked. A former hire car is unlikely to have been driven with much respect.

The engine's characteristic diesel clatter might be a bit louder for a while after a cold start. But there should not be any abnormal increase in vibration.

Pre MY2013 gearboxes seem be getting a reputation for selector alignment issues, and weak mainshaft bearings. Think the latest variant is now being retro-fitted to earlier cars whenever warranty replacement is required.

DMF's can go at any time. I'm sure there has been a couple on the forum that have been replaced after as little as 11k miles. They appear to be very sensitive to driving style.

Changing gear above 2000rpm when accelerating, and feeding the clutch in gently to allow engine and gearbox speeds time to match reduces a lot of the shock that the DMF has to absorb. Also, avoid labouring the engine in too high a gear for the conditions.

For the economy minded driver, there is always a desire to get into as high a gear as practical, as early as possible. While this will save fuel, it tends to put a higher load on the DMF and transmission, increasing wear. This is even more likely on Ecoflex models, which seem to have higher overall gearing.

[DeaniFLHT]

Certainly worth getting it all checked. A former hire car is unlikely to have been driven with much respect.

The engine's characteristic diesel clatter might be a bit louder for a while after a cold start. But there should not be any abnormal increase in vibration.

Pre MY2013 gearboxes seem be getting a reputation for selector alignment issues, and weak mainshaft bearings. Think the latest variant is now being retro-fitted to earlier cars whenever warranty replacement is required.

DMF's can go at any time. I'm sure there has been a couple on the forum that have been replaced after as little as 11k miles. They appear to be very sensitive to driving style.

Changing gear above 2000rpm when accelerating, and feeding the clutch in gently to allow engine and gearbox speeds time to match reduces a lot of the shock that the DMF has to absorb. Also, avoid labouring the engine in too high a gear for the conditions.

For the economy minded driver, there is always a desire to get into as high a gear as practical, as early as possible. While this will save fuel, it tends to put a higher load on the DMF and transmission, increasing wear. This is even more likely on Ecoflex models, which seem to have higher overall gearing.

[DeaniFLHT]

Guvi, on 16 May 2013 - 01:45 PM, said:
I don't know if my clutch is normal or braking



Every morning the clutch get stuck half way when coming back up, I have to put my feet behind it and push it up, but then it fine when driving nothing wrong till next day when I have to do it again



Also when changing gears am you ment to hear the gears changing? Like it not a clunk noise it like I don't know lmfao! I thought it was normal tbh but then again I'm no expert in mechanicals



Car did go in to fix the clutch

Did work normal for a week then went back to this sticking crap again

Firstly, if you have just had work done on the clutch and the same symptom reappears within a week, take it back to the garage that did the work. They obviously haven't sorted the problem.



The clutch pedal sticking halfway is most likely due to a problem with the pedal return springs. If the springs have broken, or are not properly located, they can cause the pedal to jam. Check out the pictures of the springs in the linked thread. Lubricating the clutch pushrod, as described at the end of the thread, might also help.

Also, make sure that there is nothing in the footwell that could be fouling on the pedal (like badly fitted carpet, floor mat, loose underdash trim etc).



http://www.insignia-...=+clutch +pedal


It could also be that the clutch release bearing is sticking on the gearbox mainshaft. I don't think this would prevent the pedal from returning, but it might result in the clunky gear changes, either because the clutch is not disengaging fully when the pedal is pressed or, because when the pedal is released the clutch engages suddenly.



If the car is stationary when you select 1st gear or reverse, there may well be a clunk, especially after a cold start when the engine idle speed will be a bit higher.

In this case, it sometimes helps to hold the clutch pedal down for a couple of seconds before selecting gear.



When driving along normally, there should not be any clunks or grinding noises when changing gear.

Such noises could indicate a number of possible problemsriver not operating the clutch properly. (Not using the full pedal travel, or mis-timing the operation of pedal and gear lever)

Clutch not releasing properly (dragging).

Badly worn DMF

Damaged or badly worn gearbox synchromesh.

Worn differential gears

Worn drive shaft CV joints.

A combination of any or all of the above.

[DeaniFLHT]

Guvi, on 16 May 2013 - 01:45 PM, said:
I don't know if my clutch is normal or braking



Every morning the clutch get stuck half way when coming back up, I have to put my feet behind it and push it up, but then it fine when driving nothing wrong till next day when I have to do it again



Also when changing gears am you ment to hear the gears changing? Like it not a clunk noise it like I don't know lmfao! I thought it was normal tbh but then again I'm no expert in mechanicals



Car did go in to fix the clutch

Did work normal for a week then went back to this sticking crap again

Firstly, if you have just had work done on the clutch and the same symptom reappears within a week, take it back to the garage that did the work. They obviously haven't sorted the problem.



The clutch pedal sticking halfway is most likely due to a problem with the pedal return springs. If the springs have broken, or are not properly located, they can cause the pedal to jam. Check out the pictures of the springs in the linked thread. Lubricating the clutch pushrod, as described at the end of the thread, might also help.

Also, make sure that there is nothing in the footwell that could be fouling on the pedal (like badly fitted carpet, floor mat, loose underdash trim etc).



http://www.insignia-...=+clutch +pedal


It could also be that the clutch release bearing is sticking on the gearbox mainshaft. I don't think this would prevent the pedal from returning, but it might result in the clunky gear changes, either because the clutch is not disengaging fully when the pedal is pressed or, because when the pedal is released the clutch engages suddenly.



If the car is stationary when you select 1st gear or reverse, there may well be a clunk, especially after a cold start when the engine idle speed will be a bit higher.

In this case, it sometimes helps to hold the clutch pedal down for a couple of seconds before selecting gear.



When driving along normally, there should not be any clunks or grinding noises when changing gear.

Such noises could indicate a number of possible problemsriver not operating the clutch properly. (Not using the full pedal travel, or mis-timing the operation of pedal and gear lever)

Clutch not releasing properly (dragging).

Badly worn DMF

Damaged or badly worn gearbox synchromesh.

Worn differential gears

Worn drive shaft CV joints.

A combination of any or all of the above.

[DeaniFLHT]

Sambor. I merely stated my own opinion of possible causes for Guvi's quoted issues. My understanding of his post was that he had recently had work done and a symptom had reappeared. I opened by saying that first off, he should go back to the garage that did the work.



I would expect that any decent auto mechanic (sorry, they are technicians nowadays) should be able to make a fair guess as to where to start looking based upon the symptoms described by the owner. If the description of the issue is not clear enough, then I would expect before any work is done, a follow-up call to the owner for more info, and that the car would be test driven to try and clarify the symptoms. A lot of possible causes could be eliminated in about 15 minutes without lifting a spanner or plugging in a diagnostic unit. In any fault finding process, the trick is to eliminate the simple and obvious causes first.



In the case of your gearbox. Sadly, the mere fact that it has been replaced, is no guarantee that the new one doesn't have the same problem, or that it is even the source of the problem. Some problems come in batches (see recent post on MY12 warranty engine replacement).

One just needs to see the problems that Scotty has been having getting a solution to his judder and fuel consumption issues.



Good luck getting your problem sorted.

[DeaniFLHT]

Sambor. I merely stated my own opinion of possible causes for Guvi's quoted issues. My understanding of his post was that he had recently had work done and a symptom had reappeared. I opened by saying that first off, he should go back to the garage that did the work.



I would expect that any decent auto mechanic (sorry, they are technicians nowadays) should be able to make a fair guess as to where to start looking based upon the symptoms described by the owner. If the description of the issue is not clear enough, then I would expect before any work is done, a follow-up call to the owner for more info, and that the car would be test driven to try and clarify the symptoms. A lot of possible causes could be eliminated in about 15 minutes without lifting a spanner or plugging in a diagnostic unit. In any fault finding process, the trick is to eliminate the simple and obvious causes first.



In the case of your gearbox. Sadly, the mere fact that it has been replaced, is no guarantee that the new one doesn't have the same problem, or that it is even the source of the problem. Some problems come in batches (see recent post on MY12 warranty engine replacement).

One just needs to see the problems that Scotty has been having getting a solution to his judder and fuel consumption issues.



Good luck getting your problem sorted.

[jmagee]

My local garage will take it over a few days and drive it regularly to find a fault if needed. Bite should be about half way up really. Mine certainly is.

[jmagee]

My local garage will take it over a few days and drive it regularly to find a fault if needed. Bite should be about half way up really. Mine certainly is.

[DeaniFLHT]

Agree with that. I would have thought a bite point at somewhere between 1/2 to 2/3 of the way down was acceptable.

[DeaniFLHT]

Agree with that. I would have thought a bite point at somewhere between 1/2 to 2/3 of the way down was acceptable.

[jmagee]

If only all mechanics did that drive. All mine seem to live 5 mins away. Apparently the couldn't find my excessive wind noise at 60 despite all the local national speed limit roads.

[jmagee]

If only all mechanics did that drive. All mine seem to live 5 mins away. Apparently the couldn't find my excessive wind noise at 60 despite all the local national speed limit roads.