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Evening all, just had a subwoofer installed to disperse the bass from my speakers. Jesus, my ears were nearly bleeding on the way home. Messed with the settings and got it to a reasonable output. I've got to (run it in) as per instructions, but it makes a hell of a difference to the sound quality, without a speaker upgrade. Ironic really, as I was quoted ridiculous prices for this. I'm not into the megawatts and volume the kids have nowadays, but it has made a vast improvement in the sound...
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Just noticed that the direct battery wire to the unit has been passed up the p/side door aperture and fed along the wing to the battery. I immediately phoned the fitters to complain. They said they are not allowed to drill any holes in the vehicle. I told them that they would have to feed it through the large wiring grommet. Again, they aren't allowed to do this because of damage or water ingress. What a load of bollocks. Has anyone got any idea how I can reroute the wire so it is hidden. I'm not really good when it comes to electrics. I believe it is a simplish job, so any help would be appreciated as I'm going to tackle this myself. -
I added a subwoofer, OK 2 subwoofers in a custom box - 1200w each powered by a tiny 300w amp... Takes the bass strain away from the door speakers and give it such a nicer sound with the added kick from the boot!Originally posted by Arfa View Post
I routed my battery live inside the car - along the passenger side under the plastic bottom of the door and through the grommet behind the glovebox into the engine bay... had no water ingress yet... However I made a new hole in the outer edge of the grommet away from the cars original loom - As it was a small hole it makes it water tight?Comment
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Many thanks for your advice. I'd have thought that they would have done the same. Do I need to remove the glove box assembly, or do you have a pictorial...Comment
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Yes it is easier to drop the glove box just to run it properly and hiding the wiring.Originally posted by Arfa View Post
IIRC its either 4/5 torx screws and it comes out, 5 mins max to remove it - NOTE: Don't just let it drop, the light will still be connected unless you removed it first.Comment
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Just push something that's sharp, and thinner than the cable through the grommet. Tape the cable to it,, I used a pencil on old car, you end off with a tight seal around the power cable2015 Sri vx line nav BiTurbo . Sri heated leather.5500k AFL . Vx line 20s,8inch LCD dash .FLEXride.Reverse cam.Irmscher grill.235hp and 480 torqs.30mm lowering springs.20mm H&R spacers all round. Mtec drilled discs on rear,VXR 355mm drilled on front,with Brembo 4 pot calipers. Auto wipers .VX puddle lights.Carbon effect black roof wrap.Irmscher roof spoiler.Irmscher side skirts.Comment
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Just a quick question. Are the heater controls meant to be flush with the surrounding panel or is there a 1/2" gap. I think they've fucked up with the refit. If they have, there's going to be a round of abuse... Had it done at halfords... Should have paid a decent audio fitter.Comment
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I'll rephrase the last post. What I meant is that I can get my fingers under the heater controls, it does not seem to be flush with the surrounding panel at the bottom, just wondering if this is the case..Originally posted by Arfa View PostComment
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Subwoofer installation
I can’t answer that unfortunately I have a Facelift [emoji4] Hopefully someone with a preface will see this postOriginally posted by Arfa View PostComment
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Yes , there is a gap at the bottom ......about 8 mm ...........Comment
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Cheers fellas, thanks for all your help. Problem solved, rerouted the live, so it's now hidden, all working well with no untidy wiring along the bodywork. Stripped out head unit and refitted, it was slightly raised on the right. Issues now resolved. Again, many thanks for the advice..Comment
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