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Ok sensible head on today .
First off it seems at the moment the whole argument is between you , the selling garage, finance company, trading standards.
First .For the selling garage to write on sales invoice that spare wheel and jack would be included as part of the initial sale and both you and him signed and agreed to the deal , then the onous is on him to supply the said items ( wether it be new or second hand )
Second for the selling garage to say that the faults with the said car are in your head , then in my mind he is treating you like an idiot .
Third , electronic handbrake woes , as far as I can remember when I had mine to either engage or disengage the handbrake , you have to have your foot on the foot brake to carry out such operations, and you always pull on the switch never push it , when handbrake engages you shoukd hear the electric motor engage parking brake .
You never push on the switch , just pull it .
To release it fast ( HSA style ) you just blip the throttle and bring clutch up .
Fourth , radio freezing , depending on what you mean by freezing ( dose it not turn off or on , or you cannot control the radio at all via any means ?
Fitfth, warning about rear door being open when not , all commands for that part are on the BCM ( body control module ) ,
Now to interigate the BCM you require a very good and sometimes expensive scan tool and an operator who knows how to use it .
If it's an intermittent fault there maybe a code stored .
The problem with some mechanics they are just scan and swap so when it comes to complex electric issues they do become a bit stumped .
As Lunn said all electrical components are on a Can-bus line ( high and low ) 2 interconnected wires that communicate between each module now understanding the whole wiring diagram can be a headache, but all you require is either a bad earth , power comm line , and it can take time to find the route cause .
As said before there seems to be a situation where there are a lot of parties envolved in the outcome of this .
We can as a forum only advise on what you write , and it would be unfair for us to take sides .
But you say you have a meeting with trading standards Friday .
If not a conclusive outcome Friday, then all I can say , is if you want to keep the car you would have to employ the services of a engineer to carry out a full mechanical/ electrical report to present to the seller garage, finance company.
But the cost of the report would be down to you in the first instance .and then argue the cost with the other parties.
But if you want rid of it then seeing as it's 3 months since purchasing, then I could take time reject and get monies payed back to the finance company.
Has any of you dealings ( written not verbal ) been kept by you , ?
The lemon law as in the USA only allows you to reject a car hands down within 30 days of purchase . After that I think it's 2-3 chances to rectify the faults ,
All,I can say is good luck , and hopefully there is a satisfactory outcome to all this .
First off it seems at the moment the whole argument is between you , the selling garage, finance company, trading standards.
First .For the selling garage to write on sales invoice that spare wheel and jack would be included as part of the initial sale and both you and him signed and agreed to the deal , then the onous is on him to supply the said items ( wether it be new or second hand )
Second for the selling garage to say that the faults with the said car are in your head , then in my mind he is treating you like an idiot .
Third , electronic handbrake woes , as far as I can remember when I had mine to either engage or disengage the handbrake , you have to have your foot on the foot brake to carry out such operations, and you always pull on the switch never push it , when handbrake engages you shoukd hear the electric motor engage parking brake .
You never push on the switch , just pull it .
To release it fast ( HSA style ) you just blip the throttle and bring clutch up .
Fourth , radio freezing , depending on what you mean by freezing ( dose it not turn off or on , or you cannot control the radio at all via any means ?
Fitfth, warning about rear door being open when not , all commands for that part are on the BCM ( body control module ) ,
Now to interigate the BCM you require a very good and sometimes expensive scan tool and an operator who knows how to use it .
If it's an intermittent fault there maybe a code stored .
The problem with some mechanics they are just scan and swap so when it comes to complex electric issues they do become a bit stumped .
As Lunn said all electrical components are on a Can-bus line ( high and low ) 2 interconnected wires that communicate between each module now understanding the whole wiring diagram can be a headache, but all you require is either a bad earth , power comm line , and it can take time to find the route cause .
As said before there seems to be a situation where there are a lot of parties envolved in the outcome of this .
We can as a forum only advise on what you write , and it would be unfair for us to take sides .
But you say you have a meeting with trading standards Friday .
If not a conclusive outcome Friday, then all I can say , is if you want to keep the car you would have to employ the services of a engineer to carry out a full mechanical/ electrical report to present to the seller garage, finance company.
But the cost of the report would be down to you in the first instance .and then argue the cost with the other parties.
But if you want rid of it then seeing as it's 3 months since purchasing, then I could take time reject and get monies payed back to the finance company.
Has any of you dealings ( written not verbal ) been kept by you , ?
The lemon law as in the USA only allows you to reject a car hands down within 30 days of purchase . After that I think it's 2-3 chances to rectify the faults ,
All,I can say is good luck , and hopefully there is a satisfactory outcome to all this .
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